good evening. like a broken record “another perfect day of surf in hawaii”….. gosh, it’s been so epic. when is it going to get shitty so i can get other things done around my house. i need like 10 days to get things back up to date. the waves and weather have been too perfect to do anything else besides surfing. so surfing it is and surfing it will be. sorry to all of you who sent emails to me. make the waves go away and make it rain so i can get back to you. oh wait, flat waves and rain? good for diving.. haha… oh, everybody who keeps asking about the music in the videos. those are all from my collection on my ipod. if you really really want one of the songs, let me know which one and when i have some time, i’ll send it to you. no problem. my ipod is the bomb and we can sit down for hours listening to classic music going “ahhh, oohhhh, ahhhh”. know what i mean? it took years and years to get all the all time classics on there but it was well worth it… hawaiian, reggae, 70’s, 80’s, alternative, and a whole lot more…
**getting back to things. went to hook up with jun jo and shuji kasuya this morning. the waves? perfect. the lighting? perfect. check it out…

jun jo rips. he’s the kind of guy that can go to new york and not surf for months. then jump into a pro surfing contest and win the dam thing. that’s talent…

shuji kasuya rips. he’s the kind of guy that paddles out to any spot around the world and turns heads. a lot of girls heads. i’m starting to get tired of all the chicks telling me “shuji is so handsome, shuji is so cool, shuji surfs so good, where’s shuji now?” hey girls, what about me? haha… just joking…

to the left, to the left[:????$B”L(B?:]…. ever since i went to beyonce’s concert in japan, i can’t get that freakin song out of my mind. when i first saw this photo, “to the left, to the left” song came into my mind again. and i still can’t get it out…. “you must not know about me, you must not know about me”[:????$B”L(B?:][:????$B”L(B?:][:????$B”L(B?:]

this local paddled out with his single fin lightning bolt board and surfed like it was the 70’s. man, he had the best style….

and this is for all you bodyboarders out there. this is a drop knee power snap. i might have to bust out my morey boggie board from the 70’s and try to reminisce….

good morning. 5:45am thursday. solid waves on the north shore. lani’s looks 4′ and pretty dam good. but why go out there if town is going off? yeah, save gas, surf town. never heard that one in a while yeah? haha… looking at bowls and the park now. shoulder/head high with 10 guys out at bowls. and get this, the park is packed!! i lost count after 42. super packed. going to drive around and look for a wave. everybody go surf!!! get out and enjoy this beautiful day!!!

summer is here!!! check out waikiki beach yesterday. i guess this is the place to be….. nah, just joking. my sister sent me this photo. she said it’s china. crazy yeah. it would kill me if waikiki ever got like this…. and with all the chinese tourist coming these days, it could actually happen… scary…
**japan has the craziest foods. raw horse liver is just one of them. check out this clip of one of the most craziest foods i’ve ever eaten… it was at a yakiniku place in chigasaki with my good friends… a couple of them camera shy… haha…

good evening. another surf, surf, and surf day here in hawaii. went for an early morning session at a secret spot with my nephew isaiah. all i have to say is barrels, barrels, and barrels…. had a blast surfing and trading waves with isaiah. good to see him ripping and charging these days….

went over to the house and things were back to normal. after 3 weeks on the road living out of a bag, they must be stoked to be back home. gosh, i know that feeling oh so well….

then went for an afternoon session at kewalo’s. overhead and perfect. gosh, i forgot what a small day on the south shore looks like. the waves have been pumping and it ain’t over yet…. my face is so sunburned that it feels like it’s going to peel off.. [:????????????:]yikes….

how do you tell a good cover shot? i’ll tell you how. walk into a huge bookstore like borders. go to the magazine section and look for a magazine of your choice. my choice was surfer mag. while looking for it, something catches your eyes and you just can’t stop looking at it. so you grab it and check it out. understand? yeah, i was in borders yesterday to check out the new surfer mag. then this photo caught my eye. it was a bodyboarder magazine and i stared at this cover for 10 minutes trying to figure out what the heck??? i’ve never seen such a nuts photo like this in my life. i ended up reading the magazine and left the bookstore. and get this, i didn’t even check out the new surfer mag. i heard jeff hubbard is the photo editor for this mag. it figures. only a surfer knows the feeling… one of the most sickest covers ever…. i just hope that nobody photoshopped that photo.. haha….

and last. this girls daddy is going to war. the sad thing is that she might never see him again. remember, we’re still in war. and it’s in another freakin country. support our troops and bring them back home to their families…..