today was the perfect day to practice for bigger waves!   Seira-chan is so relaxed so we went to challenge ourselves to a spot that only breaks when it’s big.  look at this beautiful takeoff!    my 2 foiler friends and i were sitting in the inside because the sets were too big for us.  haha.  so i told Seira-chan “go to the outside, connect with the ocean, find the peak, and when i say “go,” you better “GO!!!”   now she’s surfing with complete confidence.   she told me she’s not scared  or nervous anymore.   and the cutbacks are getting more and more beautiful.   and more and more powerful.   even my local friends told me she’s getting better!   this is absolutely perfect surfing technique!   it’s so cool to see the progression each and every day… and good to see Dave out ripping it up on his foil.  love photos like this when it’s so glassy… it was only us at this secret peak and then everybody paddled to our spot after because we were having so much fun.   but it was time to go in anyway.  Seira-chan scored again!   amazing surfing girl!   then went for a very delicious locomoco at my favorite place… thank you Seira-chan for today.  and thank you for these lovely snacks!  see you tomorrow!i had lots of work on my computer this afternoon.  but when i heard that Diamond Head was good to foil, i dropped everything and went foiling till the sun set!   another wonderful day in paradise…

 so stoked to see Donald out yesterday.  such a cool guy that loves to have fun flying airplanes and foils.  but i wouldn’t want to get in Donald’s way because he will run you right over without any doubt.  haha.  this guy is from Kauai and was ripping hard! look how beautiful this is!  good to see David out too.  another surfer turned foiler. always stoked to foil on the same wave with Carter.  unlike Donald, i can trust him.  haha… when you drive out to the East side for an hour, then surf for 4 hours, you must be either crazy, or hooked!  i was leaving after a 3.5 hour session and Carter was still out.  took this from my car as i was leaving… i really think i’m a lucky person when it comes to finding waves.  to score in the morning on the East side, then score in the evening on the South side?  there were only 3 surfers at Bowls and the waves were absolutely beautiful!   Akamatsu-san just came off the airplane.  first time in Hawaii, and first time surfing in Hawaii.  he was nervous because we went straight to the world famous Ala Moana Bowls!   after his first wave, he was so stoked! if it wasn’t for Dove Wetsuits, there would be no way in the world i’d be surfing 3x a day.  super cool, super relaxed, and super lucky.  i hope Akamatsu-san doesn’t think Bowls is like this everyday because it isn’t.  we just scored on this perfect Sunday evening!  last ride of the day…good surfing Akamatsu-san.  so happy you got to experience a perfect surf session on your first day in Hawaii.  see you in the water…

Always searching for the perfect glassy wave…

Good morning 6:10am.

North shore 3-5′ and cleaning up.

East side secret spots good!

Ala Moana waist high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and clean.

Light winds so clean morning conditions.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and foiling.

Have a wonderful day!