i asked Seira-chan this morning if she wanted to surf at Diamond Head or at Jurrasic Park.  guess where she chose?   even though i surf here many times, i still trip out on the amazing view.   you won’t find a place more beautiful than this!   and of the 30 years of passing by here many of times, i never seen it this big and this good. it’s a very wide bay with waves breaking everywhere so you have to be very knowledgeable of where to catch it.  Seira-chan was spot on!   good to see the boys out.  Donald and Glenn Pang.  super cool guys!   Seira-chan surfing better and better each day.  i told her to paddle out by herself and she wasn’t nervous at all. this is a very fun wave if you have the right surfboard.   welcome to Jurassic Park!  few more smooth rides for everybody.    when Seira-chan first came to Hawaii, she told me she doesn’t really like to go backside.  that’s all changed as she loves it now!  and to see World Champion John John Florence foiling out there today was a lucky day for Seira-chan.  she’s been bumping into World Champions almost everyday!   we were so hungry so went to eat the fattest piece of prime rib.  i was so full that i could barely walk out of the restaurant.  haha…then guess what?  i went to surf with Akamatsu-san this evening at Bowls.  when the East swell is that big, there is guaranteed wrap around in town.  only a couple guys out and we scored the most perfect lefts at Bowls!!!

we pull up to Diamond Head and i explain to Seira-chan how each and every spot will be.  from North shore to Sandy beach.  i asked her to chose what kind of waves she wanted to surf and she said “right here at Diamond Head.”   it was the right choice!

i always stress to everyone to smile when they are taking off.  that way, your body is relaxed and you can enjoy the ride more.  just like this.

there were only 2 ladies next to us when we paddled out.  we were talking and all wondering where everybody was?

then the 2 ladies went in and it was just Seira-chan and i for a while.  being a Saturday, it’s pretty unbelievable…

lunch time was custom made pizza!

Seira-chan told me she doesn’t really care for pizza but this one was the best she’s ever eaten in her life.  i feel the exact same!

then it was dessert time.  sweet yummy cupcakes!

then i took a drive out to Sandy Beach to foil this afternoon.  i had no idea it was 8′ solid and crazy!

waves were breaking off the cliffs up to 50′ high.  i couldn’t believe how big it was!   so i think “um, maybe i’ll drive an hour deep into the East and score some perfect waves?”

pulled up to the bay and the waves were pumping!  i have never seen it like this in my whole lifetime!  i was flying so fast i couldn’t control myself.

i had the fastest rides in my life, along with the most heaviest wipeouts of my life!  then i came in to talk story with the foiling boys from all over the island.  that’s because everybody was there.  still hard to believe how much money is being poured into this industry.  each one of my friends must have at least $10,000 into foiling.  i’m too embarrassed to tell you how much money i spent already…

then i came out and watched the little kids foil in the inside.  if you had a longboard or foil, you could have ridden a wave from the outside to the inside for over 2 minutes easily.  i only caught 5 waves and i was totally exhausted.

then it started to pour rain.  i hardly know these foilers but we get along really well.  we would never share a wave on our shortboards, but we share waves on our foils.  and we also share an umbrella standing in the rain.  haha.  if you saw us under the umbrella, you would have though something was wrong.  one of my friends drove by and said “you guys look cute together.”  haha…

Life is so freaking good…

Good morning 6:15am.

North shore 4-6′ and coming up!  Still bumpy conditions.

Ala Moana waist high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and clean.

East side BIG and good!

Light North winds at 5mph becoming calm.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!