when i checked out Diamond Head this morning, the waves were super small.   then i went back 2 hours later and it was coming up.  only 3 guys out!   want to welcome back the tradewinds!   we pulled up to Kewalos and got ready to surf.   as we were going to walk to the point, a truck pulls up and a girl yells to us “konnichi wa.”  omg Kelia Moniz again?  it’s the 3rd time i seen her this week!  that’s like a miracle!  i told Seira-chan, “you must be lucky or something because i never called or texted Kelia once this week.  it was just pure luck that we got to see and surf with her 3 times in 5 days.”  i guess miracles do happen in Hawaii!   todays lesson was to paddle out to Kewalos in the afternoon when school gets out.  that’s when all the local young aspiring girl surfers all head out there to train.  up until now, i was taking Seira-chan to uncrowded spots to practice her form.  now it’s game on!   Seira-chan is very kind and sweet.  it shows in the water because she would never paddle for a wave if someone else is.  so now, i’m teaching her not to be so kind and sweet.  if you want to do good in contests, you have to be aggressive and attack every wave.   just in a few days, her mental has changed drastically and now she’s catching just as many waves as the other girls.  amazing… it was cold and raining.  but no rain, no rainbows.  please rain everywhere and every time because rainbows makes me happy…and peaceful cool nights under the Honolulu City Lights makes me happy too.  gosh, i just love this place.  it was another lovely day in paradise…

 last weeks crazy weather was pretty cool to see.  biggest waves ever recorded, strongest winds ever recorded, and lowest temperatures ever recorded.  it was a once in a lifetime kind of event.   i love events like this…  recently, there have been a lot of bad things happening right here in Hawaii.  locals are stealing from locals.  sad… and locals stealing from charities.  somebody stole the rims and tires off this Boys and Girls Club van. i’d never thought these kind of things would happen here in paradise.   and the newest trend is breaking windows and stealing everything inside.   my truck got broken into right outside my house.   this one in a lighted parking lot.  i guess nowhere is safe anymore.   opps, the only safe place is the ocean!  rainbows and pure nature!   and when you have a foil, nothing else bothers you. and when you can foil into the rainbow, everything is all good!   so get a foil and forget about all the thieves here in Hawaii because that isn’t going away…last, thank yo Miwa-san for all the good treats!

The Queen @ Kewalo’s:  Kelia Moniz

Good morning 6:30am.

North shore 2-4′ from the North.  Still junky.

Ala Moana waist high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.

North winds at 20mph.

Rain, clouds, clearing later, and huge rainbows.

Going foiling and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!