today we surfed a different spot.  it’s called Rockpiles and when we paddled out, there were 2 guys.  then they caught the next waves in and there were the only 2 of us left!   it was a perfect time to teach Seira-chan to transfer her weight between her back and front foot.   so now that she’s pushing harder on her back foot, she’s gaining twice the speed.    and when doing a turn, push the back harder, and lighten up on the front.  just like this!  arms, knees, and eyes are perfect on this cutback!   there were so many unridden waves so i had to go on a few too!  i can’t believe we had the whole spot to ourselves all morning long!   Seira-chan is a very smart girl.  she listens carefully and does exactly what i tell her to do on the next wave.  by the time we finish boot camp for the next month, she will an amazing surfer!    we come in from Rockpiles and go straight to Kewalos.  this is where world class surfers are made.  guys like Joshua, Seth, and Kelia Moniz, Carissa Moore, Ezekiel Lau, Keanu Asing, and many other World Tour surfers.   this this the training ground! Seira-chan gets really nervous surfing a new place.  in order to fix that, i tell her to jump off the rock, paddle out, and surf by herself.   i wanted her to feel as nervous as you can get.  then there will be nothing more to be nervous about.  haha!   it worked because she overcame her nerves in 5 minutes and surfed amazing!   us hungry surfers went for some garlic chicken and panang curry for lunch.   then some bubble milk tea in Downtown.   then whale and wave watching at Diamond Head.  i asked Seira-chan, “where do you want to surf next?”  she said “Kewalos.”  and she chose the right place because it had to be the best wave on the island today.  and guess who was out?  yup, Kelia Moniz!  so lucky again!!!Seira-chan getting comfortable at any spot in any conditions.  this is how you become a good surfer!  an amazing day of 3 rounds of surfing.  see you again bright and early tomorrow!

 want to thank Morimoto-san for the amazing senbei!  look how beautiful it’s wrapped!   Morikawa-san and the boys work at a factory that actually makes these cans!  top quality from the surfer boys!   packaged perfectly.  i never really appreciated a can until now.   personally knowing the surfers who work hard to making quality products makes me appreciate it very much.  i’m keeping these.  thanks again guys!   when we pulled up to Diamond Head yesterday, i told Seira-chan,
“ok, we came here yesterday so you should know how to get out.  so walk down the cliff and see you in the lineup.”   this is one way i teach surfers how to be ocean independent.  and when i paddled out 5 minutes later, she was in the perfect spot!   smart girl… like is said before, when i foil, people paddle far away from me.  that’s good because i don’t want another surfboard nose in my foot!  anyway,  i’m still learning so i fall a lot.  and you wouldn’t want to be anywhere near me…   i see the set of the day, i start paddling for it, everybody paddles the opposite way, then i tell Seira-chan to “GO!!!”   she takes off behind me on the most perfect wave of the day!   then i turn on my camera and shoot behind me.   i actually have the camera in my left hand and pointing it backwards while i’m foiling away.   pretty centered yeah?  haha.   then i straighten out and take the drone shot as Seira-chan sets up for the nice bottom turn.   followed by a very beautiful cutback.  perfect style, and perfect timing.  i’m starting to really like shooting on my foil because i can’t get photos like this any other way… i don’t care who you are, but when you walk up this cliff back to the car, you are freaking exhausted!   so exhausted that you can’t even talk…   i’ve been doing this for 34 years and i still can’t get use to it.  i don’t think Seira-chan will either.  haha…after our wonderful session, it was time for some hot pho and a nice talk.   this girl has big dreams ahead and i’m sure it will all come true…

Yesterday @ Diamond Head Cliffs.  Good waves, good vibes…

Good morning 6am.

North shore 4-6′ and getting bigger today.  Still junk conditions.

Ala Moana chest high and clean.

Diamond Head shoulder high and good.

North winds at 20mph.

Rainy morning clearing up later.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!