Saturday October4日 2025年

Monthly Archives: February 2019

Batteries Recharged!

each day, i give Rikita-san options.  most of the time he says “up to you.”  but today, he didn’t want to say that after what happened yesterday on Molokai.  he knows i was leaning towards another day of high risk adventure.   so to be safe, he chose Diamond Head.  haha.

and the waves were super fun!  so easy, so comfortable, so confident, and so happy.  this is what surfing is all about…

Rikita-san is getting better surfing, and i’m getting better taking photos.  so stoked for both of us!

one year ago, we’d be colliding.  but now, we surf in harmony…

straight to Rikita-san’s favorite lunch after a wonderful surf session.

we had the full day so we did what surfers do, which was to go checking out friends in the surf industry.  this is David from Surfco.  a very smart man that has invented amazing products such as the Nose Guard.  he was showing us some of his new inventions.

Rikita-san wanted to go check out factories so we first stopped by to see Glenn Pang.  super famous shaper that’s been making thousands of surfboards for pro surfers for many years…

Glenn started shaping foil boards so we were looking at some of his new innovations.

then stopped by to check out Carl Scharper at his factory on the North Shore.  another amazing shaper that’s been building boards for decades…

and along the way, just playing around like little boys do.  connecting to the tree in this case.  haha…

then went for a super late evening session with Seira-chan.  surfed till pitch dark.

yesterday i left my house at 5am and got home at 6:30pm.

today i left my house at 7am and got home at 8pm.

it’s been like this and will be like this for a while.  so long i keep my batteries recharged, i’m good to go!  goodnight and see you tomorrow morning!

Visit, Spend, Go Home!

 want to thank the Tanaka-san family for the sake and senbei!  a perfect match!   Seira-chan living the happy and healthy Hawaiian surfer lifestyle… been foiling into the sunset often… and having a glass of whisky right before bedtime… saw the new fleet of helicopters that just arrived on Oahu.  helicopter rides terrify me!   ever since we started surfing together, Rikita-san seen pretty much everything.  so walking on a secluded beach and seeing a Hawaiian Monk Seal isn’t too surprising for him. i see Monk Seals all the time and i’m still fascinated.   if you don’t experience your dream, you won’t achieve your dream.  so quite often, i go to experience my dream.   once you feel it, you can believe it… and i bring my friends along with me because they’re all in it anyway…and i still feel it is my obligation to educate each and every person i take to Molokai.  it’s one of the few places where local residents have a say in what goes on there.  so the guy who posted this sign on the side has the same opinion as many others living there.  Visit, Spend, Go Home!   and most of the people living there aren’t joking about this.  unlike Oahu, this island doesn’t depend on tourism.  they depend on self-sustainability and lots of aloha.  and they all want to keep it that way!

February 26, 2018 Hawaii Surf Report

Welcome into our dream trip!!!

Good morning 6:20am.

North shore 3-5′ and bumpy.

Ala Moana knee high and clean.

Diamond Head waist to chest high and clean.

North winds at 15mph.

Cloudy and very cool.  Winter is back!

Going surfing!

Have a wonderful day!