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Monthly Archives: February 2019

Living in the Great Moment…

last day of surfing with Mai-chan.  really going to miss this girls energy.  always happy and always excited to do anything and everything…

and her bottom turns are getting super good!

and riding super smooth too.

this is the ultimate dream shot as a photographer.  putting each other at risk, trying something different, and the results are one of a kind…

thank you Mai-chan for the exciting surfing sessions.  keep on your great positive path in life as it will only get better…

good to see Dave out practicing and perfecting one of most hardest things to do.  foiling…

want to thank Leleo Kinimaka for sending me this photo from today.  i had a blast out there with you boys!

Rikita-san landed this afternoon, i picked him up from his hotel, we went to the North Shore for a little while, then came back to Bowls at sunset time for a refreshing surf.   it was a wonderful day!

i learned a lot on how to balance out my life.  i work hard, and i play harder.  and when i play, i don’t care what anybody thinks about me anymore.   i have fun and live in the moment, and that moment was in the front row with friends at Pato Bantan!

then when Pato came over and let me sing in the microphone, i didn’t pass up that chance of a lifetime.  i never ever sing, and i can’t sing at all.  but once again, i’m just living in the moment.  and that moment was great!

Young Girls who Surf!

 Mai-chan surfed Diamond Head with her friends before, but didn’t like it.  so i told her before the first time we paddled out together, “surf it with it me and you will love this place.”  and this is how you’re supposed to do it… and now, she doesn’t want to surf anywhere else.   there is no other way to get a photo like this unless you have an expensive drone, or an expensive foil.  in this case, an expensive foil.  thank you Mai-chan for not running me over… always good time surfing with you girl!   making new friends each day.  mostly foilers so we all stand by each other.  nobody is competitive like surfing, we just support and enjoy life like free birds… yesterday was the first time i took Seira-chan sunset surfing.  and when the golden light came out, she said “omg, this is so beautiful.”   and so was her surfing.   all my local friends at Diamond Head now knows Seira-chan.  so everybody is watching out for her.   this is the part of surfing you can’t teach, this is the part of surfing from just being a sweet girl.   and all my friends are saying how good she’s getting.  it’s so incredible how connected she’s getting to the ocean.  it takes normal surfers years and years to learn what Seira-chan learned in just 10 days.   this college girl is on her spring break of a lifetime!  first trip alone, surfing so good, and loving Hawaii more and more.  these are the kinds of trips that will change a persons life for the better…  i’m past the phase of yelling and yelling because all that was done in the first 5 days.  now it’s all about being more connected to the ocean, being more calm, and enjoying life.  this is what surfing is all about…the sunset surf session was amazing and so beautiful.  there was no where else in the world i would have rather been.   and i think Seira-chan was thinking the same thing…

February 23, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

Peace, Nature, and Calmness.   Seira-chan@DH

Good morning 6am.

North shore waist high and clean.

Ala Moana knee high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and clean.

No wind so perfect morning conditions.  Afternoon onshore.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing all day.

See you in the beautiful ocean!