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Monthly Archives: February 2019

Go PATO!

it’s been a while since i spent a night out in Waikiki.  walking around at night seeing so many tourists having a great time.  our economy is still on a super bubble!!!

just like the college days when we use to warm up with a few beers in the car before a concert.  sitting in the parking lot, listening to the music of the artist we will be seeing shortly after.  it makes my blood heat up…

head to Blue Note Waikiki to see Pato Bantan!!!  omg, this guy was my absolute favorite reggae master of the 1980’s.  his music and lyrics so positive and so uplifting.   the last time i seen Pato was back in 1987!!!

this time, we were front row and got up and personal with him.  he was letting the crowd get into his music.  look at Maki-san go!  Go-Pato!!!!

i was sitting right next to the stage actually resting my left arm on it, and my beer in my right.  i haven’t had a great time like that at a concert in years.  Pato gave me energy, positive vibes, and lots of happiness…

Naoka didn’t even know who Pato Bantan was until now.  and i’m sure he will never forget him…  i’ll get into the story later of how Pato has been in Carter and my life since the 80’s…

but first, had to wake up bright and early for an amazing surf at Diamond Head.  perfect again!

Mai-chan giving me the positive vibrations just like Pato!

and took her to my favorite bubble tea spot.  the best in Hawaii!

and my favorite chicken rice lunch place too.  another amazing day and it’s not even over.  going to pick up Seira-chan right now for an evening to sunset session.  be back later…

Textbook Surfing Style

 Seira-chan can paddle out to pretty much any spot and figure it out.  i can see her connecting to the ocean more and more each day and i love to see that!   and her surfing is 10x better than a week ago.  now she’s not falling, she’s catching more waves, and she’s surfing with lots of confidence.   when ever a wave use to come, she use to look at me to see if i say go or not.  now she can figure out which wave is good on her own.  being focused and relaxed will get you there… Seira-chan’s surfing style is getting much more better too.  good stance and good form.   i saw her catch a wave from the outside, do 2 off the top turns, a couple cutbacks, ride it all the way to the inside, and pull out with confidence.  that would be a huge score in a surf competition… Carter was out foiling and told me “wow, her surfing style got super smooth.”   Carter knows because he’s seen her surfing almost everyday.  then the next wave, Seira-chan wipes out right in front of me!  haha… she’s there somewhere under the wave…when ever she falls, i tell her “get back up, forget about it, clear your mind, keep calm, and try again!”  then this next wave is perfect surfing again.  so proud of you girl!

February 22, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

This is winter surfing in Hawaii right now!  Wish you were here…

Good morning 6:10am.

North shore waist high and clean.

Ala Moana waist high and clean.

Diamond Head shoulder high and clean.

Light winds so perfect morning conditions.

Sunny and very warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!