Slash of the Day…

Good morning 3:20am.
South swell here!!!
Ala Moana shoulder high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

today they were supposed to run the contest but they didn’t.  so we stayed out for 3 hours!  it was crowded, but competitors now days are really respectful to the Uncles.  so it’s nice to finally be an Uncle.  haha.

every time i paddle out, i watch how these top Hawaii professional surfers approach this wave.  this is how i learn what’s possible and it makes me motivated.

Dustin Quizon has always been an underground surfer.  he’s also the kind of surfer you don’t want in your heat.  he’s capable of getting excellent scores everywhere he surfs.  and also capable of winning!

Kai Lenny came out, caught this wave, did 5 big turns, and went in.  now that is cool…

what’s more cooler is this girl mixing it up with the pro surfers out at Bowls.  her surfing is getting better and better by the day!

after a much needed morning nap, we went to surf again this afternoon.  omg, the waves were so good!!!  Summer is in full swing and everybody’s loving it!!!

this was back when i went to El Salvador to explore.  i was hanging out with these 3 kids the whole time.  none of them spoke English but we somehow communicated through surfing.  that kid on the far rights name is Charlie.  he lived directly in front of Punta Roca, where they just completed the WSL contest.  i watched a few heats live on the internet and i swear i saw him in the background.  he looked like a big kid now and i’m super thankful for him and his boys for being my bodyguards during that trip…

they ran the contest for 3 days and the waves weren’t even close to how good it can get.  so i’d say i got it pretty dam good on this day with nobody out.  i wish i can go back there with my magic boards and give it another shot.  hopefully someday…

this is my surfboard room.  i painted it light blue 15 years ago because it’s a calming color.  i would go in there to exercise and admire all of my magic surfboards.  but now that i’m calm, i needed a change…

DIY means “Do It Yourself.”  and when it comes to my house, my Grandpa use to always do it himself so i try to follow his footsteps.  i still can’t believe he built this house over 60 years ago.  and he did it by himself without power tools…

so after i finished remodeling this room, i thought to myself “wow, Grandpa would be so proud.”  and that made me smile because my Grandpa was the most important person in my life…