This morning I felt like riding something totally different so I got out my Great White Twin and that was the perfect choice.  Fast as lightning.  

The waves were waist high and perfect.  I surfed Rockpiles then to Bowls.  Uncrowded for a Saturday and lots of good waves to be had.  Score.  

No matter how big or small the waves are, surfing in the morning is my natural high.  When I’m done, the rest of the day is a bonus.  Anyway, supposed to be a new South swell starting tomorrow.  We shall see first thing in the morning.  

Got home and Mateus came over.  He always asks me if I have a Playstation and I always tell him “never ever!”   If you play with me, we play “old school style.”  Using your hands and brain.  

I asked Mateus to draw a dog and this is what it looked like.  Haha.  So cute!

The Shonan Lifestyle…  Photo by Nao

Good morning 3:40am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Trade winds up to 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

Every surf trip has risks.  Getting hurt, robbed, lost, kidnapped, or killed is something you always have to think about.  It can happen to anyone at anytime, at anywhere in the world.

Yesterday, I saw the news of these 3 missing surfers in Mexico and usually that’s not good news.  If you go missing in Mexico, something bad happened.  They were on a surf trip, their car was lit on fire, and their tents empty.  Today, they found the dead bodies of the 2 Australians and one American.  Very sad news as something very bad happened.  After I read the article, I scrolled through the comments.  Most saying they were stupid to go to Mexico.  I disagree with that.  As an avid traveler, I believe that these surfers knew the risks and lived their lives to the fullest.  They chose to chase waves and live on the edge.  There is nothing stupid about that.  Terrible things happen in this crazy world we now live in.  What do you do?  Stay home?  Nope, surfers will continue to travel this world and chase waves.  The risks are high, but the rewards are much higher.  These surfers died doing what they loved so you have to respect that.  RIP boys…