good morning. 7:15am thursday morning. waves up in town. not that big but seen some shoulder/head high sets with perfect conditions. light winds, clear skies, a lot of surfers on it. going to drive around and surf the best spot today. i don’t care about the crowd, i just want to surf the best wave. see you out there…
volkswagon dunebuggies are in right now. yeah, the old school guys are bringing back the vw classics…. my friend derek was hooked on vw’s since the early 80’s. and still is. after racing around the streets of honolulu for the past 25 years, things just got more dangerous. yeah, they are throwing subaru turbo engines in the paper light dunebuggy bodies. freakin lightning speed…. check out this setup….
derek sent me an email saying that he will let me drive it around town for 1 week. he even said i can even take it to the beach with me. imagine me pulling up to sandy beach, stopping at the bus stop along the one mile strip, putting it in 1st gear, taking the motor to 8000rpm, popping the clutch, and hitting 100mph in 10 seconds. then going so fast that the dune buggy flips, i fly out, and it’s over in a flash. no, better not. i’m not a good driver when going over 100mph. and plus, i don’t have $20,000 to pay derek back. haha… whoooooopppppp…….
and last, wanted to thank local motion maki-san for the omiyage. this screws into my digital camera, then i can put it on the top of a water bottle as my stand. killer idea yeah? i’m trying to find a way to mount it to my speargun. stay tuned….
**and last last, heard about INTERNATIONAL INFLATION? yeah, believe it or not, inflation is up around the world. china up 23%, america up 10% from the same time last year. and japan? highest inflation rate in japan since 1980. last night when i bought oxtail soup at zippy’s. i tripped out when they told me “$12.67 please”… what@@ it was just a few years ago when it was $8.95. i told the girl at zippy’s “wow, prices went up yeah?”. then told me “wait till july 1st. everything on the menu at zippy’s is going up”… oh my gosh. i better go diving more often….
VW Dune Buggy Fever….
Surf Hawaii: Diamond Head….
good evening. went to check the waves this morning and decided to surf some place different. been surfing big rights and bowls the whole last swell so went straight to diamond head. had my video camera so took a short clip. can’t say where i ended up surfing because it’s kind of a secret spot. a spot where i can always run too on the most packed summer days here. and almost guarantee nobody out. just like today… surfing by yourself is good sometimes. a chance to get away from everyone and just enjoy the ocean alone. a time to let the stress out, and a time to appreciate life. ever had that feeling of sitting in the middle of the ocean where nobody is around for miles? looking at the sun, waves, fish, birds, and just nature? if you surf and haven’t tried it before, you should. just don’t ask me where to go because i won’t tell…. haha… anyway, check it out my little surf session today….
**by the way, heard some 3′ sets rolled in this evening. i’m waking up early and going surfing!!! see you out there…
Big Fat Tuna….
good morning. 5am and checking out the waves. pitch dark outside but can see some white wash at diamond head and in town. taking a guess but looks chest high with bigger sets. waves are super clean and fun. going to do some work and go jump in the water somewhere. maybe see ya out… have a nice day….
it’s pretty fun looking through a fisheye lens. it kind of distorts things so normal things look weird. check out this tuna…
this is the smartest thing to do with a coconut. now i want one…
*last, i got an email from a friend who couldn’t understand japanese so he asked me what everybody was saying the the queen’s video. so i edited the video a little and added subtitles. i hope you understand now… check it out….
***CLICK HERE FOR QUEEN’S VIDEO….