Surfer and a Rainbow…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds up to 25mph today.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Started off with another beautiful day!  Clear morning, nice waves, and perfect conditions.  Every single day!

Super happy for this girl.  Watching her life getting better day by day.  As long as you know how to have fun surfing, you’re on the right path…

Splash!

Spent the morning riding behind the girls.  The good thing is I don’t have to yell and scold them that much anymore.  Haha.

Came home for lunch.  Avocado and toast.  This morning at Bowls, Matt was talking about bacon so I was craving bacon when I got home.

Then back out for Round 2.  The Diamond Head locals Cedric and Lance.  I’ve known these guys for 35 years and they still surf as good as they did back then.  These were the guys winning all the amateur contests.  Good to see them healthy and happy.  And also surfing every single day!

The tiny endless summer…

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!