Do Something!

When I see someone on a perfect wave like this, sometimes I yell “DO SOMETHING!!!”   In this case it was Dean and the wave looked absolutely perfect.

It’s been a dream summer for long boarders.

When I pulled up to Diamond Head yesterday, I saw a guy taking off and immediately I knew it was Hayato.  I surfed with him so much that I can tell just by the way he paddles.

So I zoom in and watch the action.  That is Hayato taking off and Nori-san in the back watching.

Off the lip and a complete ride.  So cool to pull up to a surf spot and seeing one of your friends ripping it.

August 28, 2023 Hawaii Surf Report

Jiro-san flying in the dark…

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Foot Placement

 

Surfed this morning with Tamura-san.  Super cool surfer that’s always smiling.  The waves were perfect for Boot Camp.

When I ride behind someone, I’m hoping they do something special.  Just like this.

Every wave Tamura-san rode, he was smiling.

Backside grab rail with the peace sign.  I love this!

If you want your surfboard to work properly, you have to place your back foot on the sweet spot of the board.  And once you find it, your board will do all the work.  It’s like pressing the gas pedal on a car.  Look where my back foot is placed and go try that on your board.  It will love you!

Thank you Tamura-san.  Keep on smiling!

Round 2 was at Diamond Head.  Few surfers and lots of waves.  Good choice!