the surf came up last night so i was actually super excited to foil the first North swell of the season!  i’ve been training every single day for this so once i grabbed the rope, i was 100% ready!  the waves kept on coming up throughout the morning.  there were some big sets!  spent 3 hours foiling the oceans mountains…

secret spot so sorry no foiling photos today.  all i can say is that i feel like the luckiest guy in the world!  want to thank the boys for the invite.  super stoked!

i am very thankful for just surviving the day.  it is a very dangerous thing we do and even though how prepared you think you are, anything can happen in a second.  so yes, i’m very thankful…

i’ll never forget the day i got the phone call for an invite to this amazing 110′ yacht in the Philippines.  we cruised around island after island for 8 straight days.  searching for waves and finding it.  we ended up surfing this 10′ wave that has never been surfed before.  it’s these memories that stay etched in your mind forever and ever.    

pulling up to inhabited islands with waves wrapping all the way around.  crystal clear warm water and tropical weather day and night.  it was this trip where i studied how to captain a boat.  i was taught by this very experienced Filipino captain.  the way he would look at the ocean, i will never forget.  i sat behind him for hours just trying to jump into his mind to be his eyes.  i was trying to see what he saw and feel what he felt.  we would talk about safety and risks.  a few years after that trip, he was delivering a boat outside of the Philippines and never showed up to his destination.  he was never to be found.  another experienced waterman lost at sea.  it’s pretty crazy when i think about it, but also very understandable.  i always tell my family that if i go missing at sea, don’t come looking for me…

Late season South swell continues…

Good morning 3:15am.
North shore swell coming up fast.
Head high now and 8′ by this afternoon.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to North.
Have a wonderful day!