i was running around all day picking up things for my foil.  i feel like a kid going to all the toy stores on the island.  it’s so fun!

i saw this swell coming a week ago so i was getting prepared.  North shore 8-12′ tomorrow so the first swell of the season.  i already got the call i’ve been waiting for so i better go to sleep early.

when i was a young kid, i never use to appreciate nature so much.  now, i’m absorbing and taking in every little minute of it.  it just makes me super calm and really appreciative to be alive…

when ever i watch a movie or drama, i never ask or want to know what it’s about.  i refuse to watch any type of trailer too because i like to just start the movie with no expectations.  so when i came across this weird movie called “Squid Game” on Netflix, i just clicked it.

at first, i thought it was a kids animation or silly kind of kids movie.  i almost was going to stop it and look for something else.  then it started to get interesting, then it started to get super crazy!  i was in total shock watching it and i only watched the first episode.  going to watch episode 2 tonight and hope i don’t get nightmares.  try to watch it with no expectations and you might freak out too.  haha…

Full moon surfing…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets and good. Super high tide this morning.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
First North/West swell coming Saturday.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!