Smile all Day

it felt so good to be in the ocean at dark with the only light being the moon.  it was so peaceful and so beautiful.

and the waves were super perfect!  a new South swell today on these endless summer days…

only a few know the feeling of dawn patrol.  and it’s the dawn patrollers that can go to work after with a big smile that lasts all day long…

Big Hearts of Aloha

 

gosh, it’s already been 12 years since we had this amazing trip to Molokai.  we got to dive with the best watermen on the island.  true Hawaiians with true aloha.  one memory was diving with Uncle Raymond.  he was so connected to the ocean and it was amazing watching him hunt for dinner.  i have some of the most precious photos from that trip.  and i also have some of the most precious memories from that trip.  diving, cruising, surfing, bbq, and just living the Hawaiian lifestyle.  i can’t wait to do it again…

by the way, that’s Toda-san on the left.  when he was there, he would blend in with the locals.  a big heart with lots of aloha too!

 

September 22, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

Hanging out on the Cliff…

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana chest high sets and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
North shore shoulder high and good.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!