another beautiful morning here in Hawaii. the ocean was much more smoother and perfect than yesterday. i guess you can say this is paradise…
good to see the locals out enjoying the sunrise. every time a surfer passes me by, this is what i’m looking at.
i can look at this all day long…
then after the sunrise golden moment was over, it was time to get busy. omg, i can’t believe how fun this is!!!
then this afternoon i took a drive by Diamond Head and couldn’t believe how good it was! i must have timed it perfectly because it was actually pretty empty…
so i run down the hill, paddle out, and enjoy my 2nd session of the day.
it’s very rare to see Diamond Head like this. not to many surfers, and absolutely perfect conditions. tomorrow somewhere will be perfect again and i’ll be there for sure. maybe once, or maybe twice. nobody knows, including myself. haha…
now that it’s winter season, there will be much more variety and opportunity to foil spots that nobody knows about. just us foilers know where to go, and i’m never surprised when i pull up in the dark and see the boys already paddling out…
these spots we foil are super far out so it takes 30 minutes just to paddle out. not to mention, these spots are tiger shark infested. maybe that’s why nobody else is out…
it’s blurry in the morning and when you’re flying, it gets even more blurry. most of the time i’m just holding on for my dear life. but after that ride is finished, i can’t wait to get another one…
First in the ocean. Lucky guy…
