i was walking to the water this morning in the pitch dark.  i could barely see but saw a silhouette hanging from the tree.  then this guy turned on his headlight and it was a fish!!!  omg, the night fishermen caught 5 big ulua’s last night.  they were super happy!  we were talking story in the dark then i told him, “oh, i gotta go now.”   he said “what, you going out now?  no can see brah!”  he shook his head as i jumped in the water.  haha…foiling in the dark is the best feeling.  you are basically flying over the surface.  you can’t see anything so it’s pretty much by feel.  then as the sun starts to rise, everything comes clearer, and easier…i was surprised how good the waves were.  the past few days was flat so nobody predicted this lucky swell.  the local surfers were stoked too!had some shoulder high sets breaking both right and left.  score!today i was practicing floating over the white wash.  then on my last wave, i caught one from Kaisers and pumped all the way to Rockpiles lefts.  next time i’m flying past Bowls…

this is Pipeline.  a lot of people don’t know how crazy the current is.  it can be very calm one minute, and then turn into a raging river the other.  take yesterday for example.  look at all that water moving in the inside.  the current is ripping so fast from left to right that it’s creating waves in the opposite direction.  if you’re an experienced surfer, you can use this current to get you out to the lineup.  if you’re not experienced, jumping in the water near the shore break might be your last day living.  you could literally be 5′ off the sand and if a wave comes and drags you into the ocean, 99% of people wouldn’t know what to do.  then comes the panic.  then comes death looking right at you.  then comes a surfer or lifeguard to save your life.  that might be your lucky day.  it happens all the time.  so yeah, the ocean can be so beautiful one minute, and a nightmare the other.  please be safe and don’t go near when the waves are big.  take your selfie from the safe dry sand.  and if you ever get caught up in the raging ocean, being calm and going with the flow will save your life.  that goes the same in the ocean, and same on the land…

Evening on Mayuki…

Good morning 4:30am.
North shore 4-6′ and good! Big swell again on Tuesday.
New South/East swell!
Ala Moana bigger than yesterday. Chest high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds so nice morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going foiling.
Have a wonderful day!