Another day, another beautiful sunrise…

Good morning 4:30am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, and huge double rainbows.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

went foiling early this morning for an hour.  caught 5 waves and that was enough.  perfect conditions and perfect waves again.  this Summer isn’t ending yet…

then went to the Moniz house to hang out.  good to see the kids.  i couldn’t believe how big Kelia’s stomach was!  new baby is coming any day now and we all can’t wait!

Nao-san took a free dive class in Japan and i was amazed how calm she was underwater.  this is the perfect way to get through this pandemic.  keeping calm is the key…

when ever i foil now, i think about how i can hunt at the same time.   if i hit fish, i will stop, dive down and get it, and take it home and eat it.  i really think that will happen someday…

there is a secrets spot where you can paddle out 500 yards, turn around, and ride a wave all the way to the beach.  it’s the best feeling, as well as the best workout in the world…

i hardly shortboard anymore because i feel like i can foil just as good now.  and the feeling is 10x more exciting…

style is everything…

i saw this weird mermaid hanging on the tree at Diamond Head a few months ago.  i didn’t know what it was until Jeannie Chesser sent me a photo of hers yesterday.  she said it is called “Stella.”  who’s Stella???