i picked up a couple acai bowls and a chocolate peanut butter smoothie.  after foiling for 3 hours yesterday morning,  this was my reward!!! i’ve never been this happy about acai bowls in my life.  it’s super healthy and makes me super happy.  and what makes it better, the service at Hawaiian Crown is probably the best service you will get in Hawaii.  Japanese and local staff always smiling and always preparing the best quality food.  i’m not only saying this because my friend owns this shop, i’m saying this because i really mean it.  i always leave there with a smile for some reason.  maybe because Japanese workers are super professional, clean, and very kind where ever they work.  i love that style…then once i get in my car, i can’t wait so i just eat it in the parking lot.  it’s so good till the last spoonful.  you can’t beat it!  i love peanut butter so i ordered the chocolate/peanut butter smoothie.  the girl told me you can add a shot of Kona coffee in there so i said why not?  i haven’t had coffee in over 25 years so i wanted to see how my body and mind will accept it.  after i took my first sip, i thought my eyes were going to pop out, i started sweating, and i wanted to foil again even though i just foiled for 3 hours.   i was amped out!!!  then when the coffee buzz wore off, i took the deepest and longest nap ever.  haha.  i think i’ll try that again!

One wave, one surfer, one love…

Good morning 4:45am.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

omg, did you see the sunrise this morning???  i was foiling at Bowls and was totally mesmerized…

we are so lucky to get a South swell in November!!!  it was crowded but plenty of waves for everyone.  sorry to everyone for pumping around catching every wave i could today.  i thought i was a kid and had Disneyland all to myself.  haha…

localism?  there is a longboard guy that always drops in on people.  he would never look back and i always thought, “one day, he’s going to drop in on the wrong guy.”  and today was that day.  he dropped in on a local, got yelled at, he got a board thrown at his head, and he even got punched.  usually i would stop people from getting beaten up, but today i couldn’t.  i just watched and told my friend i was surfing with, “see, this is how some people have to learn.  it’s sad, but this is surfing culture not only in Hawaii, but in the world.”  it was actually good to see because some surfers don’t have any manners these days.  and it’s annoying and very dangerous…

one person per wave, that’s the way it supposed to be.  and another worldwide rule is locals get priority.  so if you’re a visitor, don’t even try to drop in on a local.  anyway, the waves were absolutely perfect!!!

yesterday, Hawaii opened up to Japanese tourists.  but when i was driving through Waikiki this morning, i didn’t see a single tourist around.  when will this pandemic end???