Watashi no mono: This is mine!

back to yesterday before i can talk about today.  imagine us older guys yelling and screaming like we’re surfing 20′ waves.  our little secret spot was as good as it gets!

Glenn Pang is a legend shaper.  he’s shaped surfboards for some of the best pro surfers in the history of surfing.  very knowledgeable, and very good at foiling!

i was following Glenn on this wave thinking to myself “gosh, i wish i can try his board!”

Donald is one of the happiest guys you’ll ever meet.  always so stoked on life…

Fabian was out but he had his new foil so i couldn’t catch him…

then back to this morning.  another day, another spot.  Kaiborg and i were waiting since yesterday for this moment.  he drove from the North shore before 5am probably speeding at 100mph.  haha.

so after our foiling session yesterday, Glenn said “go take my board and try it.”  what????  this is his personal board!  now it’s mine!  haha.  lucky me!!!

Big Baby News…

Fabian takes photos while he’s foiling.  here is Donald taking off to fly.  i’m pretty sure taking off on a foil is way more fun than taking off on an airplane.  Donald knows that…i saw Donald have a bad wipeout.  he fell in front of the foil and it ran him over.  luckily it only dented his shin, and not his head.  makes us all realize how dangerous this sport is.  look at that dent in his shin!!!there is no way i can get this kind of feeling doing anything else.  it’s like surfing and flying at the same time!  in the past 20 years, i bumped into Tyson about 2 times.  but in the past week, i bumped into Tyson 3 times already.  another cool thing the foil brings.  it brings us all back together and we’re happier to see each other than ever.and when i see my friends starting off and wiping out like this.  i just laugh.  it’s just part of foiling and my advice always is the same “never give up!”last, big baby news from Hawaii.  Kelia Moniz is pregnant!  i can’t wait to meet her new baby!   i’m so happy for my little niece!   i took this photo about a month ago so imagine how hard it was for me to keep this a secret?  haha…

July 3, 2020 Hawaii Surf Report

Rockpiles Afternoon Delight…

Good morning 4am.

New South swell again!!!

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head head and good.

Trade winds at 10mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going to Black Belt theatre.

Have a wonderful day!