Priceless Happiness…

it’s been so long since i went for a cruise in this baby…

driving with the wind blowing at my face, music playing, and the feeling of speed…

went out to Hawaii Kai where i grew up.  37 years ago i use to drive a rusted and cheap VW bug around here.  and back then, i dreamt that someday i’d be driving my dream car.  it took kind of long, but i never gave up…

i’ve been waiting for my new foil wing for a long time.  it came in and i picked it up right away.  it cost a lot of money but the happiness it will bring me is priceless.  i already tried it out and i don’t even need a wave to foil!  that’s priceless to me…

June 28, 2020 Hawaii Surf Report

Lockdown Memory:  Popular’s with nobody out.  Really?  Yes, really!  A precious surfing moment in my life…

Good morning 4:30am.

Ala Moana overhead and perfect!

Diamond Head 5′ sets and good.

Waikiki head high and perfect.

Trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going for foil super session.

Have a wonderful day!

Speed Matters…

was on standby this morning again.  and when i got out there, it was a dream.  foiling with the North Shore boys having so much fun!  here is early bird Uncle Brian…

back when i use to surf with Kaiborg at Backdoor/Pipeline, we didn’t have much to talk about.  it was just so tense out there and everybody was super hungry for the wave of the day.  but now, we have lots to talk about.  and it starts at 4am in the morning.  we’re like kids trying to find the best spot on the island to foil.  and it’s still pitch dark!  haha.  but once the sun comes up, we’re already ahead of everybody else…

i feel like everyday is a surf trip.  i wake up at 3:30am waiting for the call.  and once i find out where the best spot is, i’m leaving.  today we were at the best spot, and for tomorrow, i already know where the best spot will be.  so i’ll sleep at 7:30pm, wake up at 3:30am, and do it all over again.  goodnight…