The new Waikiki.  I’ve never seen it like this before!

Good morning 4:20am.

North shore chest high and bumpy.

Ala Moana overhead and good.  Morning sickness but getting better later.

Diamond Head overhead and too bumpy.

Strong trade winds at 25mph.

Sun, showers, and huge rainbows.

Going searching for the perfect wave.

Have a wonderful day!

Nakahodo-san came at a good time.  waves were perfect for our 6 days of Boot Camp.  and this morning, i couldn’t have asked for anything more.  a BIG SWELL!  haha.

the waves were so big that there is no way you could have duck dove it.  so like we trained many of times, just throw the board, swim under,  and you will make it out.  maybe that’s the reason there was only a few of us out at Rock Piles lefts.

and when i say GO, you GO!  big wave with the rainbow in the background.

i respect people that live life to the fullest.  so yeah, i respect this man…

thank you for the amazing morning sessions.  stay calm and everything will be ok…

the last rainbow.  Nakahodo-san jumped on a flight back to Japan after this.  you’re a lucky man!

came home and opened a couple of boxes that was at my door.  check out my new boots for street motorcycle riding!  these will turn brown from the mud in one day.  haha…

then opened up another box of goodies!  OMG, a box of Dove Wetsuit clothes! i’ll sort them out tonight and let you know what i got!

today i saw 5′ sets at Bowls, and tomorrow is supposed to get bigger.  so now i’ll wax up my new board and try it out tomorrow.  of course, i’ll be looking for the barrel.  see you in the water!

since it was Ken-kun’s first time surfing, i was very careful that he doesn’t get traumatized.  so i’m trying to entertain him so he doesn’t freakout.  and it was working really good in the beginning.  this was his first wave!  look how happy he was!  smiling the whole way!!!  but then….i fell off the board and so did he.  if you’re a 4 year old kid, you would freak out.  haha.  i saw him go over backwards and his face was full of fear.  i grab him instantly had start laughing out loud.  he wasn’t sure what to do or what to feel, so he started laughing after.  it’s times like this i was happy that his Dad wasn’t nearby.  if he was, that would be the end of surfing for this kid.  but Dad wasn’t near so he couldn’t cry.  this is the reason i tell parents to stay very far away.  Ken-kun just got back on the board and had to be brave.  then we paddled back out and he was ready to go again!  simple psychology.  haha…the next wave was even better.  this time we didn’t fall and this time the ride went perfectly.  you can see how stoked he is…we surfed 2 rounds today and i’m sure Ken-kun is going to want to surf again for sure.  i just love this Okinawan kid!  Father and Son loving the ocean, and loving Hawaii.  this is what surfing is all about.  especially at times like this, we have to stay positive, happy, healthy, and together.  that’s what the ocean provides…