so fun watching Oshima-san surfing.  progressing everyday and loving it more and more.  waves were so good this morning.  a new South swell with long walls ahead.  more bigger this week…look at Oshima-san fly!  and now the duck dive is smooth so it’s way easier to paddle back out.  when in the water, the last thing on our minds is the coronavirus.  then took Ken-kun surfing this afternoon.  he just turned 4 years old yesterday and is the cutest kid ever.  when Ken-kun was born, Nakahodo-san told me his dream is to surf with his son someday.  that day was today and not only did we surf together, we rode the same wave together!  Hawaii looks like a resort island now.  the beaches are packed with tourists and locals.  i’ve never seen it like this ever!  starting tomorrow at 4:30pm, everybody is ordered to stay home until April 30th.  i’m wondering how many people will follow that rule???

yesterday was the day i thought Oshima-san was ready for a super high performance short board.  and i knew once i let him ride my magic board, i wasn’t getting it back.  haha.

i was so stoked watching him duck dive under the big sets.  it was almost too easy for him.

look how cool this photo is.  i duck dove in front of Oshima-san and pointed my camera backwards.  had no idea how the photo would come out, but i was stoked with the results.  looks like a dolphin!

so yeah, i never got my board back.  but it’s ok because i know the feeling of riding a magic board!

then went for a surf in the afternoon with Aoki-san.  super cool guy from Sendai.

and he’s only been surfing for a year!  i was impressed on his level…

i surfed Sendai many times and know a lot of people from there.  so wanted to say hello to everybody!  and thank you Aoki-san for the great time!
for the past few days, i’ve been seeing a lot of European surfers in Hawaii.  i’m pretty sure everybody is running away from many places in the world because Hawaii is probably the safest place to be.  it’s like Bali over here now!  and i just talked to my lifeguard friend and he said that the government is going to ban surfing in the next coming days.  i was speechless when i heard that.  i don’t think that’s the right thing to do, but who knows.  in the meantime, let’s all just keep calm and be safe…

South swell and surfing in a bikini continues…

Good morning 4:30am.

North shore 2-4′ and good.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head head high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!