dropped off Seira-chan at 5:45am.  she was the first to paddle out again.  the early bird always gets the worm…then i went to pick up Nakahodo-san and we paddled out in the dark too.  i told him Seira-chan was already surfing and he thought i was joking.gosh, if you want to get away from all the negative news about the virus, this is the place to do it…Nakahodo-san catching an early morning gem…Seira-chan is considered a local girl.  people can’t believe she’s from Japan.Boot Camp continues.  looking super good!like everybody else, Nakahodo-san loves the morning sessions now.  i love it too! then went back in and back out with Oshima-san.  super good rides!looking like a happy surfer!and surfing like a happy surfer.been teaching Renta-kun how to smile and it’s looking pretty good.  this boy will never give up.  he wants to get better on the short board and yes he will.Seira-chan surfed all the 7 hours with me today.  after, she told me she’s so dehydrated and tired.  i was thinking, “i’ve been doing this everyday for the past 30 years.”  i’m dehydrated and tried everyday but also a very happy and healthy surfer everyday…then took this 4 year old cutie surfing for 3 rounds.  then mom and dad too.  today was a day full of smiles and laughter.  dehydrated and tired, but i’m freaking so happy!

no matter how much rain and how dirty the water is, you can find a spot or two that is crystal clear.  it’s just the way the currents flow and where the water drains out from the island.  in this case, we are between 2 main drainages so the water is usually clear here no matter what.

i gave Seira-chan 2 choices in the morning.  go somewhere perfect and walk the longboard, or go somewhere wild and challenge ourselves.  on this day, she wanted to walk…

perfect choice for me because i love perfect waves.  i had a blast!

long point right wave with Mayuki in the back.  this is better then an Indonesia boat trip!

one of the old timers surfing out there said “is that your daughter?”  i said “yes.”  haha.  people often ask me that and when i say “no,”  they give me a strange face and think i’m a creepy guy hanging out with a young girl.  haha.  so yeah, it’s easier to say “yes” sometimes…

then he said “your daughter surfs so gracefully!”  i said “thank you.”  haha…

with all the panic going on in this world, there’s no where else i’d rather be.  and if the rumors are true that someday everybody can’t leave their house because of the virus, i’m moving to the sea the day before that happens.  i have everything on Mayuki to survive for a very long time.  my surfboard, speargun, shoyu, and wasabi…  and the crazy thing about it is that it’s the safest place anyway so nobody will bother me.  empty lineups is like a dream to me…

last, all state parks are closed until May 1st!  that means ALL lifeguards in the towers are OFF!  there might be a few driving around in trucks but none full time at the beach anymore.  so if you go out into the ocean, please be very careful.  and most importantly, KEEP CALM!

Turtles on Vacation:  Less tourists, so more freedom!

Good morning 4:30am.  Wow, so early!  Haha!

North shore waist high and perfect.  Coming up tomorrow.

Ala Moana waist to chest high and good.

Diamond Head shoulder high and good.

Light East winds at 5mph.

Sun coming back today.  Warm and nice.

Going surfing 3 rounds from dawn to dusk.

Have a wonderful day!