first was round 1: like a normal day, we started off early. Seira-chan practicing hard on the longboard because she told me she wants to be like Kelia Moniz…
step by step, this girl is getting good. by the end of this trip, she might be surfing even better than Kelia Moniz…
then it was round 2: Oshima-san is one of the happiest guys i know. always super stoked on any and every wave.
this is how you’re supposed to take off. smile and love it!
so happy to see Oshima-san liking his new magic board.
surfing so fast that i can’t even keep up anymore. haha…
while we were surfing, the vibe suddenly changed. yeah, Kelia Moniz paddled out and Seira-chan was super surprised. it’s so weird how many times these 2 girls meet by chance.
then it was round 3: Joe brings a good vibe into the ocean too. super happy and super positive. you have to be super happy and super positive to be married to Kelia. haha.
we ended up surfing for a very long time. none of us wanted to go in so we ended up surfing and having a great time. i’m so proud of Kelia for being such a great role model for so many people. she brings the sunshine, she brings the happiness, and she brings the dreams. it was awesome surfing with you girl!
3 rounds for me and it was still 11am. i came home and took the longest nap! when i got up, i didn’t know where i was. haha…

i went to surf Diamond Head and right as i got there, i seen an ambulance and fire truck arrive. i knew something was wrong.
a local surfer was surfing and then he felt like he was going to pass out. so other local surfers went to help him and called 911. this is the reason i always tell my students never to surf alone. some listen, some don’t. you have to remember that if nobody knows you, nobody will be looking out after you. so please surf with somebody who knows what to do in case of an emergency. please…
when i got the group text yesterday afternoon to go for a ride, i said “I’m in!” Micah and my brother loaded up the bikes and we were off to the mountains.
went to meet up with Tony, Eric Barton, and our friends son. so we had 6 of us in our group. i was the least experienced so yeah, i was way behind. haha.
but everybody is watching out for everybody. it’s an amazing bond.
and the views from the mountains are spectacular! while everybody keeps on riding, i have to stop and take a photo like this.
then we continue down the steep mountain. i’m always wondering how the heck i’m going to make it back up? haha…
and along the sea cliffs too. right over the side is a 500′ vertical drop into the rocky coastline. one mistake and goodbye forever. i can’t believe how fast those guys ride along that cliff. i don’t have much fear in most things i do, but i’d be lying to you if i told you i wasn’t scared riding along this cliff. it was freaky…
If you’re ever having a bad day, Mateus will make it better!
