Yes, this is South shore in Winter!  Barrels of fun!

Good morning 5:45am.

North shore 4-6′ and coming up.  Volcom Pro probably ON!

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head head high and perfect.

Light winds so nice morning conditions.

Sunny and warm.

Going foiling and North!

Have a wonderful day!

started off paddling out at dark this morning!  Hiro-san caught his first wave and i don’t know how he could even see.  haha.  do you see him?  yes, look good and i’m riding behind him shooting this photo blindly.

10 minutes later, it started to light up and i could see this perfect ride and perfect wave!

then we surfed the sunrise together and the waves were incredible!

last wave of this trip for Hiro-san, then off the airport back to Japan.  i can’t believe how good he got in the past 4 days.  i’m sure he’s dreaming about coming back to Hawaii already…

then went back in and picked up Yaji-san.  Bowls was this empty!  only a few guys out and the waves were super good.

surfing Bowls rights together and having a great time.

the sun coming up and this is already my 2nd session.  loving every moment of it!

Yagi-san ripping.  i told him to imagine washing the big windows.  this is where i want your hands.  everything else will follow!  good job Yaji-san and thank you for the great time.  keep on washing the windows!  haha…

and can you believe i went out for a third round in the evening?  omg, i’m totaling 30 hours in the ocean for the past 5 days?  that’s crazy!!!

when you have the motivation to get good in surfing, you will get good really fast.  in the past 3 days, i’ve seen guys transformed into really good surfers.  Hiro-san with the perfect form…Nori-san is always smiling.  riding and smiling and smiling and riding…these photos i love the most.  you feel like you’re actually riding together.  and it makes you feel like you’re in Hawaii!  and when you’re in Hawaii surfing beautiful waves, you feel beautiful!   nothing can stop the smiles!thanks boys for the morning session.  every session we surf, you will only get better.  this is called “Boot Camp!”  haha.i was starving!  so went to Rainbow Drive-in and ordered my special plate i’ve been eating for the past 35 years.  nothing changed except the price going up 3x.  that’s called “inflation.”  then went back for an evening session with the boys.  lots of people don’t like to go backside because it’s tricky.  but once you find out the right way, it’s easier than frontside.  so i told the boys to practice backside in the evening.  and when you can successfully ride backside, your frontside will get 2x better.  good job boys!i start off the day with the sunrise heading into the ocean, and end the day with the sunset getting out of the ocean.  a very long but very lovely day…