My golden drive home yesterday evening…

Good morning 5:45am.

North shore 3-5′ and perfect.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head shoulder high and perfect.

Light winds so nice conditions all day.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing 3 rounds.

Have a wonderful day!

long day so better make it short.  started off with 11 year old Takeo-kun!  here is his first wave!  i’m sure he was enjoying flying over the ocean!good to see him smiling and being so brave!then it was 7 year old Naoya-kun.  a bit nervous on the paddle out.  we ended up riding the longest wave of the day!all the girls in the water was saying “omg, he’s so cute!!!”  yeah, for sure.then it was Mama’s turn.  very good stand up and very good smile!  this is how you’re supposed to enjoy your first wave of your life!  so stoked!then went out to surf with Papa.  i took him over to Rock Piles rights.  it was so good!the water was warm, clean, and very good waves!  i love the bottom turn and i love the airbrush on his surfboard.and i love this cutback too!thank you Sato-san for letting me take your whole family surfing today.  i just love kids and i loved all the smiles!  see you tomorrow!

went back surfing two more rounds so another 7 hours total in the water.  i’m totally sunburnt!  more photos coming soon after rest my red eyes…

i’ve been experimenting with mixing up surfers together.  always trying to find harmony between everyone.  and i realized that no matter where you come from or no matter what you do, we all have to get along.  since it’s one ocean, we should be one too right?

Hiro-san just went up another level in his surfing.  wave by wave, i’m seeing improvements…

Nori-san too is improving a lot.  super calm and enjoying the moment.

Mai-chan enjoys every moment of every day.  she just got a new shortboard and loves it!

i let Hiro-san try my shortboard after this and he was flying!  i’m sure he’ll be ordering one soon.  haha…

Nori-san always smiling and always going for it!

a world known photographer told me once “Kirby, ride a red surfboard.  it will make any photo look a lot better.”  he was absolutely right!

one ocean, one life…  with all the people dying in freak accidents recently, it’s time to think “will i be happy if i died today?”  if you can honesty answer “yes,”  then you’re content and happy.  if you answer “no,” then you better get to work trying to make your life a little better.  just something to think about…