Only a Surfer knows the feeling…

Good morning 6am.

North shore 4-6′ and good!  Sunset contest ON!

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head head high and good.

Light trade winds becoming calm.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing 3 rounds.

Have a wonderful day!

it’s Yaji-san’s first time to Hawaii and first time surfing here.  i was so happy i got to take him because first impression is everything.  so now i’m sure he will be wanting more and more of Hawaii because he caught the best waves of his life!  i told him to relax, ride, and smile.  just like this!and when i said go, he went!  this is a perfect student and now he’s surfing way better.  Yaji-san wants to enter a contest this Summer and i’m sure he will do good.  keep smiling and the judges will love you just for that!  it just shows your confidence and confidence is everything.  get ready for Boot Camp Day 2!dropped off Yagi-san and met up right after with Renta-kun.  this boy was ready for the amazing rides. from his first wave to his last, he never fell off at all.  today was the best surfing for Renta-kun and things will only get better and better.i’m trying to teach this kid a lot of things in life besides surfing.  trying to teach him how to be responsible, smart, confident, and also how to smile!  he told me he doesn’t know how to smile so i was trying to teach him.  it was so funny!  we were cracking up.  haha.  surfing with this kid makes me so happy.  can’t wait until his Dad comes back because i want him to see the huge improvements!   after surfing 2 rounds totaling 4.5 hours just in the morning, my body was overheating.  i knew i had another round to surf so i cooled down with some rocky road ice cream.  my favorite!  then met Hiro-san, Nori-san, and Mai-chan at the beach this afternoon and had a super fun time surfing together.  it’s so fun mixing up people and watching everybody cheer each other on.  this is what surfing is all about…

i surfed 7 hours today and i’m totally sunburnt.  good night because tomorrow will be another 7 hour surfing day!

i meet the coolest people in the ocean.  all surfers that just want to get better in surfing.  so when Hiro-san and Nori-san approached me to coach them, i couldn’t and wouldn’t say no.  i know the feeling of wanting to get better and that’s what i love to help out the most…so i tell the boys to meet me by the shower in the afternoon.  gave them a few tips on the beach, and went out and watched them rip!  here is Hiro-san surfing 10x better than yesterday morning.  and tomorrow he’ll be surfing 20x better!  Nori-san challenging himself on a shorter board and doing super good.  once again, i’m taking photos and yelling while riding along.  haha.style is everything.  and when you have a good style like this, surfing becomes even cooler than ever.  when i said go, the boys went!  life will only get better from now…thank you guys for our first day of Boot Camp.  i was happy to see your level of surfing rise so high.  in no time, you will be on shortboards ripping Bowls.  just keep calm and enjoy the ride for now.  good things will come…