West wrap around swell @ Bowls.  Hiro-san feeling so good!!!

Good morning 6am.

North shore HUGE!  Still 8-12′ plus and dangerous.

Ala Moana waist with chest high sets.  Super good.

Diamond Head shoulder high and little bumpy.

Light trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going Boot Camp surfing 3 rounds!

Have a wonderful day!

when we paddled out this morning, i told Imamura-san to keep calm from her very first wave.  and she was not only calm, she was smiling!  if you can surf calm and happy, every thing else will fall into place.  and it will also look very good too!and if you apply the calmness on bigger waves, it works even better.  i was so happy to see this girl enjoying the ride.  we surfed 3 happy hours this morning! then went to Chinatown.  i totally forgot about the virus that’s going around in China so we just visited the temple and left.  Chinatown was packed and lots of people coughing.  scary… Izumo Taisha is a must for every Japanese visiting Hawaii.   then it was a garlic chicken and Panang curry combination.  then grabbed a cold smoothie and headed to the East side.Kailua Beach was so beautiful.  very emerald…  thank you Imamura-san for the wonderful time surfing and driving.  and thank you Nishizeko-san for sending this cool surfer my way! then went straight back out to Bowls.  waves still good and i got to surf with two cool Tokyo boys.  photos coming soon…

when ever i take Mai-chan surfing, she knows exactly what to do.  so for now, all we work on is getting to the next level of doing off the lips and maybe even getting barreled.  nice bottom turn girl!we were testing out surfboards yesterday.  now she knows the difference between length, width, thickness, and volume.  every little millimeter makes a huge difference.  that’s why i have 50 surfboards.  haha. good surfing Mai-chan.  all those days of yelling, crying, and frustration made you a very cool and happy surfer girl.  super proud of you!“Shells sink & Dreams float, LIFE’S GOOD On Our BOAT!”  i want to get this for Mayuki!!!