Just like Summer…

Good morning 6am.

North shore 6-10′ and getting HUGE very fast!  Be careful!

Ala Moana waist high and perfect.

Diamond Head shoulder high and getting bumpy.

Trade winds back today at 15mph.

Sunny and warm and beautiful.

Going surfing and surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

went surfing early this morning with Imamura-san.  she was a little nervous because the waves were pretty big.  these are the kind of days you’re surfing and confidence can either go up a level, or down two levels.  haha.  and once you get your first big wave of your life, your level will go up instantly.  thank goodness!surfing and smiling at the same time means you’re having a great time!  it was totally empty again this morning.  perfect shoulder high waves and hardly anyone around?  score!  once Imamura-san got the feeling of bigger waves, surfing became so easy for her.  i was so happy to see her progress just in the 2 hours we were out.then went for a bowl of hot pho!surf, smile, and pho.  a great balance…  see you tomorrow for more Boot Camp!i asked for extra parsley today and it was excellent!  then went surfing with Mai-chan this afternoon.  yes, Mai-chan is back in Hawaii for surf, smile, and lifestyle…

 did i ever tell you the story about one evening in the Maldives?  had a couple beers and took the jetski over to an island pretty far away.  we were taking photos and picking shells.  next thing i know, i look at the ski and it was on the sand!  the tide dropped super fast and the ski was on dry sand.  omg!  i tried to push it off but couldn’t.  luckily Satoko is a very strong woman because if it wasn’t for her helping me, we would have been stuck on the island for sure.  haha.  funny times…someplace i wouldn’t mind getting stuck is right here.  surfing with friends, and enjoying the beautiful view of Mt. Fuji.  i use to do this every year and can’t wait to start doing it again soon.  say hello to the Fuji Boys!

 and i wouldn’t mind getting stuck on a boat exploring the Indian Sea again.   once again, i was on the beach picking shells watching our crew getting epic surf.  what was i thinking??? being on so many boat trips, i learned how to master popping up and getting towed.  it looks super easy, but it’s actually pretty hard.  i’ve seen super good surfers and waterman having trouble popping up.  you need good timing, and you also need a good boat driver.  and when you figure it out, you probably can foil pretty easily.  and this is so much fun!!!