1/2/20 x 5 Surfers x Green Flash

it’s only the 2nd day of the year and i surfed 6 hours today!  3 rounds which started with this early morning one.  lots of waves and lots of smiles on this January 2nd…

round 2 was with Ujibayashi-san.  we haven’t surfed together for a while so it was fun catching up.  long long rides…

it makes me so happy to see everybody getting better and better in surfing.  thank you Ujibayashi-san.

round 3 was this evening.  Ai-san was surfing super confident.  this was her first wave and there were many many more after this…

then twin sister Megu-san surfing better too.  the waves were perfect so they were showing me high levels of confidence.

Taki-san was calm and cool too.  i think he rode his waves the farthest because i could barely see him after every ride.

twin sisters sharing a single wave.  this is what surfing is all about!

thank you Ai-san, Megu-san, and Taki-san for the amazing sunset session.  please tell Ozaki-san i said hello when you get back to Japan.  hope to see you all again soon.

by the way, did you see the green flash this evening???  i saw it and it was amazing!!!

Can’t wait for Happy People, Happy World…

 thank you Takami-san for the beautiful photo of Mt. Fuji!  can’t wait to see her!  thank you Nao-san for the gifts from Japan!  can’t wait to eat it all!thank you Kimura-san for the photos of your new secret bar.  can’t wait to get super drunk in there!  and can’t wait to drink your collection of Jack Daniels, then try to ride that bicycle after.  haha…Aloha to you all!  can’t wait to see my Yamari family in Wakayama!  lovely photo from Mama and Papa Iwata-san.  can’t wait to pick avocados with you guys this year!  and the holiday season is coming to a close.  can’t wait for next year!

 

January 2, 2020 Hawaii Surf Report

A sunrise date with Barbie…

Good morning 5:30am.

North shore 2-4′ and good.

Ala Moana waist high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and fun.

Light trade winds at 10mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing 3 rounds.

Have a wonderful day!