2018:  i took this photo last years Christmas Eve.  David was walking on the beach like he does every single morning.  it seemed ordinary but it turned out to be the opposite.  David almost lost his life that day.  if it wasn’t for other local surfers watching out for him, this story wouldn’t have had a happy ending…2019:  this Christmas Eve was David’s one year anniversary.  i totally forgot about the date, but i guess he didn’t.  he walked around the parking lot thanking all the people that saved his life.  i just told him “happy birthday David, you’re 1 years old!”  it’s amazing how some people get a second chance of life…i use David as an example for a lot of my students.  David is a local and surfs at Bowls everyday.  so everybody knows him and everybody watches over him.  and that’s the reason he is alive.  some surfers want to challenge themselves and surf other spots by themselves.  i always discourage that because if you do that, nobody knows you and nobody will watch over you.  and if something happens, nobody will help you.  a board can simply hit your head and you will knock out, then drown.  so unless you’re very experienced, i’d advise you to surf with a buddy at all times.  and when your buddy rides a wave, watch to see where he his and make sure he gets back out safely.  being unconscious underwater, every second counts.  the faster you get rescued, the greater chance you will survive…

anyway, Happy 1st Birthday again David!!!

Yesterday@Diamond Head:  Wildest ever!!!

Good morning 6:30am.

EDDIE AIKAU MIGHT GO NEXT TUESDAY!!!

North shore 2-4′ and perfect.

Ala Moana head high and bumpy.

Diamond Head overhead and more bumpy.

No wind so waves will clean up today.

Sun, clouds, and warm.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

BINGO has been our family tradition.  we would play it every Christmas and it was a good way to have fun together.  and since i am the loudest in the family, i always get assigned to call out the numbers.  haha…Christmas in Hawaii is all about family.  we gather in the living room and watch the kids open presents.  to see the joy on their faces is priceless…our family is growing, growing, and growing.  i have nieces and nephews and grand nieces and grand nephews everywhere!  and it isn’t stopping anytime soon…everybody is hooked on the electric motorcycle.  Mason Ho was at my house the other day picking up his.  i’m sure he’s going to go crazy on the North Shore with it.  haha…