Victory @ Sea

today was very tricky to find surf.  most spots in town were super flat.  so we looked at Diamond Head and found some waves.  and when you’re at this level of surfing, you can surf anything!Nao-san knows she has to look at the waves carefully before she enters the ocean.  from here, you can see everything.  but once you get in, you will be lost if you don’t know where to go…Freedom @ Diamond Head!  can you see the 3 of us?when you wait in the right place, you will find the right wave.yeah, Nao-san found a nice shoulder high wave!  and many more…Nakahodo-san wanted to foil today and i could tell he was super focused.  he caught some good waves and right as i fell on this wave while taking this photo, he lifted and flew like a bird.  today was super hard conditions to foil so just getting the board to fly was a challenge.  tomorrow we are going to foilers paradise so today’s practice will pay off big time! finding a delicious Israel sandwich like this is rare.  but a shop right down my street is the one and only… i can’t even describe all the delicious ingredients that make this healthy and juicy sandwich.  makes me want to go to Israel!

Pipe to Pu’ena to World Champion H2O

after watching the contest yesterday, we wanted to surf something challenging again.  so we went to challenge ourselves.  waves were challenging, and super good!!!Nao-san is surfing better and better.  nice bottom turn!!!long rides and even longer smiles…Nakahodo-san is riding the shortboard and getting better and better.  i just love watching people surf from behind.  i can see the lines, and their wonderful view…i followed some strangers and got some photos.  this guy was pretty stoked…i sold my old foil board and foil to a fireman.  so stoked to see him out there flying…people say you’re lucky if you can see a turtle.  Nao-san has been very lucky…back to Pupukea Lunch Wagon.  the surfers choice!i had to eat the shoyu chicken plate again.  this has to be the best on the island… this place is so eco friendly that they don’t sell plastic water bottles, or give out anything plastic.  so if you want to drink water, you have to bring your own container.  that’s such a great idea! this water station was donated by World Champion John John Florence.  that’s cool and now i have a lot more respect for him…