Our North Shore session yesterday.  Look how good it was.  We scored!

Good morning 5:10am.

North shore 2-4′ and clean.

Ala Moana knee high and offshore.

Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph becoming 40mph later.

Sun, clouds, showers, and huge rainbows.

Going foiling!

Have a wonderful day!

 on the way out to the Pipe Masters, we stopped off at Surfers Coffee.   i just love this place, especially now that there is a Christmas tree!Nakahodo-san’s first time so it’s great because he always likes something new.  Nao-san has been here many and many of times…then we get to the Pipe Masters and you could barely find a spot to sit!  the whole island was there and the whole world was watching!  while Seth was getting ready for his heat, he just found out that he won the Rookie of the Year award!  he was super stoked!  if i could bring all of my students to the Pipe Masters, i would.  you will learn a lot, mostly about commitment, confidence, and keeping calm…good to see my whole family there.  here is 4 generations of the Fukunaga Bloodline.  yes, believe it or not, but there is a whole lot of Japanese blood in this photo…Seth came up short in his heat against Kelly Slater.  we all thought he won on his last wave but i understand if you want to beat Kelly, you have to really beat him.  Seth learned a lot this year and he won the prestigious Rookie of the Year trophy.  i want to congratulate him on that as well as coach Rainos Hayes.  you guys made Hawaii really proud!  have a fun vacation and lets get ready for the 2020 tour!!!

i really wanted to take Nakahodo-san and Nao-san out to Sandy Beach.  i knew it was going to be big and wild so we went to check it out anyway.  after observing the overhead sets and strong rip current, i decided it wouldn’t be a good idea.  i know we could survive it, but i didn’t want the lifeguards scolding me after.  haha…

so instead, i took them for something totally different.  we pull up to the edge of the cliff.  i tell Nakahodo-san to throw his surfboard in the ocean, and jump in.  he looked at me and thought i was joking.  then when he saw my facial expression, he knew i wasn’t joking.

so he jumped in.  Nakahodo-san is a wonderful student because when i say jump, he jumps!  haha…

then it was Nao-san’s turn.  of course she knew what she had to do. there’s always a first time for everything if you hang out with me…

after they both jumped off the highest part of the cliff, i walked down to the lowest part and jumped in.  haha…

when we were surfing, Nakahodo-san’s leash got stuck to the reef.  3 years ago he would have panicked, but not anymore.  this is how you stay cool…

getting in is the easy part, getting out is where people get hurt, or even die.  you have to time the sets and climb up using the ocean swells. i’ve been doing this for years so it’s natural.  but for first timers, it’s probably the scariest thing ever.  good job guys for keeping calm and surfing over 6 inches of water.  thanks for looking forward…

it’s showtime.  it’s MONIZ time!