12 years ago:  10 year old Winner at Ikumi, Japan.   Today, I hope 22 year old winner at Pipeline, Hawaii…  Go Seth!

Good morning 4:45am

North shore 3-5′ and coming up.  Pipeline Masters guarantee ON!

Ala Moana knee high and good for long boarding.

Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph becoming 40mph by tomorrow.

Sun, clouds, showers, rainbows, and barrels!

Going to the Pipe Masters all day!

Have a wonderful day!

these are my students.  all 3 come from different backgrounds and different worlds.  now, we all have the same thing in common, and we all live in the same world.  surf, laugh, and enjoy the Hawaiian lifestyle…

Nakahodo-san’s loves the challenge.  after yesterdays calm session at Bowls, we went to the wild side of Diamond Head.

Naosan just goes with the flow.  long boarding yesterday, and short boarding today.

i was driving home last night and heard somebody yell my name.  it was dark so i couldn’t see anything, but i knew it was Maichan.  she wanted to join us this morning so why not.  this girl is super spontaneous…

there is a reason why i haven’t been foiling so much recently.  it’s because i went back to enjoying surfing and the feeling of connecting with the ocean.  of course i miss flying like a bird, but i miss this too.   i feel like Seth Moniz.  haha…

we can all learn from each other.  and that’s why i love to connect the people in my beautiful world.  these are my students, and now we are all friends…

surfing good waves is great, but eating good food after surfing good waves is even greater.  we all shared stories on how we all met, and it was pretty funny…

you can’t find a better meal like this anywhere else in Chinatown…

then it was straight to dessert.  thank you guys for the amazing time!

then our day didn’t end.  we went to take another challenge.  it was beautiful, exciting, and refreshing.  i should go to bed because we’re going to watch the Pipe Masters tomorrow morning!  goodnight!

i ready this article about stress.  this is what it said:  “Too much, and you become overwhelmed. Too little, and you’re unmotivated.”

i think that is so true.  before i read this, i thought i had absolutely no stress.  but now that i think about it, i probably have some because i’m totally motivated to live a happier life.  so yeah, from now, i’ll take the stress and turn it into motivation!

there’s absolutely no stress when i’m seeing rainbows from the time i leave my house till the time i get home.  and absolutely no stress when i’m seeing happy surfers having so much fun in places like Shikoku, Japan.   and absolutely no stress when i’m seeing happy snowboarders having fun in Hokkaido, Japan.  my friend Mike just sent me this photo from 27 years ago.  we were at the ferry port getting ready to board an overnight ferry to Niijima Island.  we were young, crazy, and foreigners having a good time in Japan.  and at that time, Niijima was the place to be.  good waves, good vibe, and good people.  there were thousands of people on our ferry going to the same island for the same thing.  surf and party!    now 27 years later, all i want to do is go to the ocean.  surf, dive, and watch beautiful rainbows.  it’s interesting how much my life has changed.  i finally grew up!  haha…