December 18, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

Pipeline Masters Seth Moniz Fan Club…

Good morning 5am.

North shore head high and too small for Pipeline Masters.

Contest ON tomorrow.

Ala Moana knee high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

Keep Calm #7

the contest wasn’t on today but we were waiting patiently.  so were the kids.  here is Seth’s nephew Mateus and niece Kaira playing in the pipeline sand waiting for Uncle to surf his heat. Nao-san was probably the first person in the world to buy Seth’s WCT jersey.  and now it’s officially signed…Keep Calm?  haha.  it must be a family thing…Micah told us to go to Pupukea Grill to eat lunch.  omg, it was the best place i’ve ever eaten on the North Shore!  every single pro surfer on the North Shore recommends this place, even John John Florance.after waiting 3 hours for the contest director to make up his mind, they cancelled it for the day.  good call because the waves were junky.  trying again on Thursday.  i can’t wait till this contest is over because the traffic is ridicules!  Nakahodo-san just arrived today and wanted to get in the water.  so we did a sunset session and rode waves longer than Pipeline…Nao-san is getting very comfortable on any board she rides.Nakahodo-san came to Hawaii to surf, surf, and surf.  and also watch Seth vs. Kelly.  this lucky guys dream will come true this week…keeping calm and riding the longest waves of your life.  this is surfing…once again, we surfed into sunset.  what a great way to end a very long day…

Moonlight Madness

i love when people want to surf early in the morning.  it’s the absolutely best time.  first of all, nobody is out.  second, you have to go by feel.  third, you learn so much about the ocean.  and last, it’s the best way to start out the day…this is my view when i’m surfing.  it’s just the moonlight, city lights, and us…i was riding behind Ryu-san on this long ride.  you can’t see him right?  i could barely see his silhouette but we where screaming the whole way. i took Minoda-san surfing for the first time in his life a month ago.  and now this was his second time.  he was kind of wondering how we would surf in the dark, but once he caught his first wave, he was super stoked!if you surf in the dark, you can have the whole surf spot to yourself.  in this case, we had Ala Moana Bowls all to ourselves.  then when it gets lighted, surfing couldn’t get easier.  amazing surfing from Minoda-san!Ryu-san is getting better and better by the day.  he loves Boot Camp and loves the challenge.  i can’t wait to take him out on a huge day!Nao-san is connecting more and more to the ocean.  this is how you go with the flow.

we all got out of the water at 8am and had a full day ahead of us.  the boys caught a flight back to Japan, and Nao-san and a full day ahead in paradise.  that’s what you call living life to the fullest…