when there is strong East winds like this, you can count on Jurrasic Park being pretty dam good.  it’s like a playground for us foiler kids…we got there by 8:30am and the waves were absolutely perfect!this was going to be Nakahodo-san’s first real experience here.  this is the best foiler spot on the whole island of Oahu. every single good foiler from Oahu was there.  the level was high and everybody was having a great time.Nakahodo-san caught some good waves!  i was so stoked to see him flying!  this is perfect foil and surf stance.  bend your knees, look forward keep your forward arm up, and enjoy the ride.  good job Nakahodo-san! came out and talked story to the boys.  the foiling community here is full of cool guys.  everybody cheering each other, and everybody so nice to each other.  we ended up foiling till 12pm!  3.5 hours?  no wonder we were so tired and hungry.  this was my bento!our generation of foilers is full of locals, lifeguards, firemen, policemen, lawyers, doctors, MMA fighters, and professional surfers.  but once we hit the water, we are all there for the same thing, which is to fly!  Nakahodo-san is a foiler too so everybody is nice to him.  one of the local boys just started to talk to him and when he found out Nakahodo-san was from Okinawa, the conversation when to a happier level.  Hawaiians love Okinawans…then i got out the andagi Nakahodo-san brought from Okinawa.  the boys were stoked!  this is the local lifestyle.  hanging out and loving life on a rainy Saturday morning…it was a far drive back to town but with breathtaking views like this, it’s all good.i’m so happy to see Nakahodo-san living the happy life as a surfer and foiler.  i know exactly how he’s feeling right now and it’s pretty dam great!  good job at Foil Boot Camp today!  see you tomorrow bright and early…

Matsu sent me this photo from Spain.  he said it’s a perfect wave for foiling!  it’s funny how us foilers see waves very differently ever since we started foiling.  anything and everything is ridable…the colors of fall in Hawaii… seen this magazine on the stand.  i’m going to read it.  i studied in college about these brave 2nd Generation Japanese/American warriors.  bravery, courage, and commitment…found some tako in my freezer.  Kelia is going to make squid luau for our Christmas dinner!  back to the Pipeline Masters.  so much talk the day after the event…want to thank everyone that texted me and supported Seth this whole year.  the waves in his heat with Kelly wasn’t good at all.  that was a bummer.  but to think about the year Seth had, it was amazing.  i’m so proud of this kid!  if you seen the intentional interference Gabriel did to Caio, you will either love him for his competitiveness, or you will hate him for his ruthlessness.  i think that was very smart on his part, but at the same time, it was very unsportsmanlike.  there’s talk right now that another rule in the WSL rulebook might penalize him for doing that because it was intentionally.  then he might lose some overall points that might cost him his Olympic spot?  stay tuned because Brazil won’t be happy if that happens.  there was already death threats on Caio and i’m sure there will be a lot more after this.  the sad thing is it wasn’t even Caio’s fault.  welcome to the social media trashing world…

Always waiting for the perfect wave…

Good morning 6am.

North shore 2-4′ and super windy.

Ala Moana knee high and strong offshore.

Diamond Head chest high and super strong side shore.

East side overhead wind swell.

Trade winds at 40mph!  Please be careful.

Sun, clouds, and huge rainbows.

Going foiling.

Have a wonderful day!