The Final Golden Minute!

Nakahodo-san left today so he wanted to get a final surf this morning.  that means we did 6 days of Boot Camp!  longboarding, short boarding, and foiling all included.  we just added the early morning dark session for a grand finale…

i think i could do this every single morning.  when you hardly can see, you feel more and more connected to the ocean.  it’s pretty dam cool…

then when the sun starts to peak over Diamond Head, the day begins…

the sky will turn into a painting, you’ll see the golden glow, and the priceless moment.

Nakahodo-san rode a wave, i followed him, and a minute later, the sky turned back into gray again.  this was the golden one minute moment that we had all to ourselves…

then it was time to ride as many waves as possible before Nakahodo-san’s flight.  this wave was going perfectly until i yelled “go right!”

then Nakahodo-san looked at me and i knew what was going to happen next. a magic 9’6 longboard right into my face!  omg, abunai!!!  luckily i blocked it and instead of going to the hospital, i safely took Nakahodo-san back to his hotel so he could get to the airport on time.  we had a wonderful 6 days of Boot Camp and this calm and cool man has become even calmer and cooler…then i went full speed to Jurassic Park and foiled!  the waves were still good and i felt like a bird again.  i got home at 12pm and i couldn’t believe how great my morning went.  lucky we live in Hawaii…

Feel Confident to Fly…

a rainy and very windy morning.  if you surf, it’s the worst.  if you foil, it’s the best.

so yes, we planned for this day which doesn’t happen too often here at Jurrasic Park.

i still remember the day Nakahodo-san asked me “teach me how to foil.”  i told him “it’s very dangerous.”  he said “i know but i want to foil.”  a man with confidence is the kind of man i respect…

and i still remember the day Carter said “i want to foil.”  he said he’s never seen me more excited and happier like this in the 40 years we’ve known each other.  so he started foiling and now there is one more excited and happier man in this world…

Uncle Brian is 68 years young.  i thought i was excited on foiling, but you have to see him.  he’s loving his life!

always happy to see Fabian.  super cool Hawaiian i met in Okinawa 20 years ago.  and now we’re foiling in Hawaii together.  so stoked!

thanks Fabian for the shots.  so stoked to fly with you today!

just by looking at these photos, i know exactly what my next board and foil should be.  i just ordered it today so should be getting it mid-January.  Merry Christmas to Me!  haha…

Nakahodo-san is the kind of guy you will really like.  always going with the flow, always calm, and always cool.

and now that he’s flying, even cooler…

so happy you got to foil Jurrasic Park for the first time.  good job!!!

December 22, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

Gone Surfing…

Good morning 5am.

North shore chest high from the North.  Laniakea best.

Ala Moana knee high and clean.

Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.

East side windy and wild.

Trade winds at 25mph.

Sun, clouds, and rainbows.

Going sunrise surfing.

Have a wonderful day!