Nakahodo-san gave me andagi so when i got home, i gave Mateus a bag and said “try some Okinawan donuts.”  he ended up eating the whole bag!!!   hopefully i can take this kid to Okinawa with me someday.  then i will let him eat andagi all day and all night.  i just want to see his boy happy like this.  haha…i went to the East side yesterday for 2 reasons. one was to foil, and the other was to visit my Grandparents.  i was so happy somebody went before me and made these decorations!  every time i come here, i close my eyes and thank my Grandparents and Great Grandparents for bringing me into this wonderful world.  i know about the hardships they had to go through immigrating to Hawaii a hundred years ago.  i am so grateful of the wonderful path they gave me and also so grateful for the Japanese traditions they passed down.  so yeah, i’m a proud 100% Japanese boy…

Ohana is Family and Ohana is Aloha…

Good morning 5:30am.

North shore chest high from the North.

Ala Moana knee high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 15mph today.  Stong South/East winds tomorrow.

Sun, clouds, showers, and wintery weather.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

Nakahodo-san left today so he wanted to get a final surf this morning.  that means we did 6 days of Boot Camp!  longboarding, short boarding, and foiling all included.  we just added the early morning dark session for a grand finale…

i think i could do this every single morning.  when you hardly can see, you feel more and more connected to the ocean.  it’s pretty dam cool…

then when the sun starts to peak over Diamond Head, the day begins…

the sky will turn into a painting, you’ll see the golden glow, and the priceless moment.

Nakahodo-san rode a wave, i followed him, and a minute later, the sky turned back into gray again.  this was the golden one minute moment that we had all to ourselves…

then it was time to ride as many waves as possible before Nakahodo-san’s flight.  this wave was going perfectly until i yelled “go right!”

then Nakahodo-san looked at me and i knew what was going to happen next. a magic 9’6 longboard right into my face!  omg, abunai!!!  luckily i blocked it and instead of going to the hospital, i safely took Nakahodo-san back to his hotel so he could get to the airport on time.  we had a wonderful 6 days of Boot Camp and this calm and cool man has become even calmer and cooler…then i went full speed to Jurassic Park and foiled!  the waves were still good and i felt like a bird again.  i got home at 12pm and i couldn’t believe how great my morning went.  lucky we live in Hawaii…