was driving by the Zoo early in the morning when i saw something strange….then i thought to myself “if i were homeless, i’d do this too!  a very smart man…”i’d have to say that i have a very good time surfing with everyone.  no matter what age, what color, what race, what level, or what mentality, i love it all.  and at the end of the day, i can drive home with a big smile on my face, and hopefully everybody else can too…my friend told me the other day “i can’t believe how good at foiling your friend Toda-san got.”  i told him “yeah, Toda-san is very talented and excels in everything he does.”  this is excelling!  one thing i’m kind of upset about is that Toda-san copied my cutback!!!  omg, this is a total copy!!!!  haha…been surfing and foiling back and forth.  i’d have to say that i love to do both…Nakahodo-san is getting better in both foiling and surfing.  i always tell him that in order to get better, you have to have good boards and foils.  now after he bought his new foil, he’ll be flying even longer now…

Merry Christmas Eve!

Good morning 6:15am.

North shore chest high and clean.

Ala Moana chest high and good.

Diamond Head shoulder high and fun.

East winds at 15mph.

Sun and clouds and warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful Christmas Eve!

omg, i left my house early and when i passed by Diamond Head, it looked like it was on fire!!!  the sky was all lit up and it was bright red.  thank you Mother Nature for greeting us this morning with the deep red sunrise!paddled out to to Bowls and couldn’t believe how good the waves were!   seeing Jeannie Chesser in the morning always makes me happy.  we talk, we argue, and we laugh.  such a lovely lady…then it was surf time!  Nao-san aiming for the sun coming over Diamond Head.  i thought the waves were going to be small this morning but i was totally wrong.  it’s good to be wrong sometimes.  haha…glassy waves and long rides.  another day of perfect surfing…here is a perfect example of how to take off.  watch Pat smiling with his hands down below his chest ready to pop up.  it can’t get any better than this and if any one of my students is reading this, please follow Pat’s style.  after we surfed, we went for the juiciest piece of prime rib.  and we were done by 10:30am.  another amazing morning…