Style is Everything…

Good morning 4:45am.

North shore 2-3′ and coming up tonight.  Bumpy and windy.

Pipeline Masters ON tomorrow guarantee.

Ala Moana waist high and good.

Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.  40mph this week.

Sun, clouds, showers, and huge rainbows.

Going surfing now in the dark.

Have a wonderful day!

took out Renta-kun early this morning.  he was on the longboard, i was on the foil taking this drone shot.  cool!we met this cool surfer guy.  his name is Matt and i was so impressed because Renta-kun was talking to him in English.  Matt is 70 years old!  we were talking and he was so excited to be surfing at his age.  i told him about 70 year old Asayama-san surfing at Pipeline.  haha.  anyway, Matt asked me for advice and i told him:  start doing yoga and you will surf forever.  good surfing Matt.  glad you went to check out the yoga studio after our session.  and i’m looking forward to giving you a surf lesson.  your life will never be the same…just like how this kids life will never be the same.  Renta-kun is a surfer.  cool, calm, and all the girls will be chasing him soon.  haha…from a shy kid a few years ago, to a very confident young man.  Matt told me how happy Renta-kun looked after every ride.  so stoked to hear that…  then went for an evening session and learned a lot about waves, boards, and how to have fun…from sunrise to sunset, the ocean is my home.  goodnight…

it’s winter season in Hawaii if you didn’t know.  but still warm water, sunny days, and amazing sunsets…it’s amazing how beautiful Diamond Head looks when it’s so green like this!  want to welcome Nao-san back in Hawaii.  surf, eat, and play…i still think that Diamond Head Grill has the best locomoco’s!  i’ve known Brian Surrat for over 30 years.  he’s always been very kind and supportive to me.  and since we are both avid foilers, our bond is even stronger now.  can you believe he’s over 70 years old?  incredible!     i hope Seth isn’t trying to teach Kaira how to surf.  because when he taught me how to foil for the first time, he just said “go Uncle!”  and i almost killed myself.  haha…coming home and unloading the truck after a long day is tiring.  but when Mateus sneaks in the back and scares me like this, i only can smile.  this little boy makes me so happy…