Yes, please take me to the beach!

Good morning 5:20am.

North shore 2-3′ and bumpy.  Pipe Masters OFF for today.

Ala Moana waist high and good.

Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

paddled out at pitch dark this morning.  there was nobody else out so we got Bowls to ourselves!  of course you can’t see, but you can feel right?  this is how i like to teach people about the ocean.  all you have is the leftover moon light, and some lights from the buildings.  the rest is just go with your instinct, and just go with the flow.  and when you ride a wave when it’s this dark, you will feel the power.  it’s something i just can’t explain in words…then when the sun peaks up over Diamond Head, it only brings joy.  then it’s almost too easy to surf now.  it’s like somebody turned on the lights in a room.  and if you can surf in the dark, surfing in the light is no problem.  Ryu-san loving the great waves!Nao-san rode some in the dark too so this was almost too easy for her.  yes guys, we got lucky!  only us out on this Saturday morning…it was the first time i foiled in the dark.  i couldn’t believe how good it felt!  i was the happiest bird on the island…Ryu-san’s first sunrise experience, and i’m sure not his last…last wave of the day and we were in by 8am.  a full day ahead and lots of things to do on this beautiful Saturday.  thanks guys for coming and going with the flow.  you guys did great!!!

Round 3:  Seth was winning his heat while Kelly Slater was in the following heat.  Seth knew very well that if he won this heat and Kelly won his, they will go face to face in the next round.  i think that was extra motivation for this kid that loves to go up against giants!  i went up to check out the Leaderboard.  every year i do this and i still can remember 15 years ago when i thought how cool it would be to have one of my nephews names on there someday.  and that day has come!  Seth surfed the first round and beat Ryan Callihan and Yago Dora.  he actually dominated that heat…then Round 3 he came up against Billy Kemper.  remember that Billy Kemper is big wave world champion and it was big waves at Pipeline.  that’s a major upset in the history books…now it’s round 4 and the day i dreamed of is here.  i always wanted Seth to go man on man with Kelly Slater.  the Rookie vs. the GOAT (Greatest of all time).  this is the most talked about heat in the contest right now because Kelly looks unstoppable. but if he’s stopped, Seth will take out the final page in the book of Kelly’s accomplishments, including a possible Olympic Medal…   crazy huh???notice that Kelly Slater won 7 times.  and he won his first 3 Pipe Masters before Seth was even born.  crazy huh???i had to take a photo of the entrance for the Pipe Masters.  this is my nephew up there and out of all the worlds surfers, they chose him!  and look who’s on the right side.  yes, 2x World Champion Gabriel Medina.  wouldn’t that be cool if Seth and Gabriel made the finals???   anyway, stay tuned for the final showdown.  it’s going to be exciting!