December 14, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

Seth’s smallest fan:  Go Seth!!  from Princess Leia…

Good morning 5am.

North shore 3-5′ form the North.  Bumpy and probably no contest.  Try again on Monday.

Ala Moana waist high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows.

Going dawn patrol.

Have a wonderful day!

E-Bike Craziness…

went out to the North shore early just in case the contest was on.  it was on standby so we jumped into Pua’ena Point for a quick session. we caught 3 waves in 15 minutes and had the most wonderful time all to ourselves.  score!

what do pro surfers do on down time?  they ride E-bikes barefoot and get crazy!  do you know who this WCT surfer is???

yeah, Seth Moniz.  he’s practicing for his upcoming heat with Kelly Slater.  Kelly is probably doing yoga and meditating while Seth is just being a kid.  haha.  i makes you wonder who’s stressing to more than who???

if Kelia sees people having fun, she will jump right on in.

this girl was making me laugh every since she was born.  a very funny character…

 then it was my turn.  i sped around the yard and almost ran over Italo Ferarra’s surfboards!  omg, that would have been crazy if i broke the current World #1 boards.  my Sister would have killed me.  haha…

then i borrowed Micah’s E-Bike to go get lunch.  i had so much fun riding around the North Shore on this cool bike!  the contest was cancelled so it was back to town….

picked up Ryu-san.  yes, he’s already back again!  haha.  had a blast at Bowls!

try to figure out how i got this photo?  i was on my short board riding on the back of Ryu-san’s longboard.  the coolest view!

Ryu-san just came to Hawaii today, and it was instant Boot Camp.  good waves and happy smiles.

welcome back to Hawaii again Ryu-san!  see you tomorrow morning for sunrise Boot Camp!  good night everyone!!!

New Baby: Enjoying the World Again!

did you hear about the volcano eruption in New Zealand?  well, White Island erupted and almost everybody on the island died.  thrills seekers going all the way there to experience nature at it’s purest.  now some people are asking “why did they let people hike the mountain if it was active?”  if you haven’t traveled out of the USA, you are probably thinking lawsuits, negligence, or pure stupidity.  but if you’re a thrill seeker, you will think the opposite… i travel out of the USA and look for thrills.  so here is my take on this situation.  first, going out of your own country, you should do your own homework.  if you hike an active volcano, of course it could erupt at any moment.  it’s nature right?  as for me, i didn’t do any homework when i got talked into hiking up and camping on an active volcano.  i just went with the flow but i knew it was risky.  and that’s why i went.  then seeing the volcano erupting all night long was scary, but at the same time, amazing.  you won’t get an experience like this on a normal day. when i got to the top, i felt like i was reborn.  i can’t even explain to you how content i was…then it started rumbling again and erupted.  after sleeping up there and waking up every 20 minutes to a huge eruption followed by fire, i got use to it.  when you’re a thrill seeker and put yourself in situations like this, you are well aware of the risks.  and the risks don’t matter when you can feel raw nature like this.  but when you get back home and hear the news about the same mountain erupting and thousands dying, it really makes you appreciate life much more.  that’s what you learn when traveling to dangerous areas.  you come back home and every breath is golden.  i really feel sorry for the people that died in the recent New Zealand eruption, but those thrill seekers were living their life to the fullest.  it’s very sad, but at the same time, they died doing what they loved.  i respect that… then after coming down a volcano and surfing waves like this, you don’t really care if tomorrow even comes.  a lot of people don’t understand me, but if you traveled the world taking risks, your life will have a new meaning.  and when your life has a new meaning, it’s like being reborn again.  like a little baby enjoying this beautiful world all over again…