did you hear about the volcano eruption in New Zealand?  well, White Island erupted and almost everybody on the island died.  thrills seekers going all the way there to experience nature at it’s purest.  now some people are asking “why did they let people hike the mountain if it was active?”  if you haven’t traveled out of the USA, you are probably thinking lawsuits, negligence, or pure stupidity.  but if you’re a thrill seeker, you will think the opposite… i travel out of the USA and look for thrills.  so here is my take on this situation.  first, going out of your own country, you should do your own homework.  if you hike an active volcano, of course it could erupt at any moment.  it’s nature right?  as for me, i didn’t do any homework when i got talked into hiking up and camping on an active volcano.  i just went with the flow but i knew it was risky.  and that’s why i went.  then seeing the volcano erupting all night long was scary, but at the same time, amazing.  you won’t get an experience like this on a normal day. when i got to the top, i felt like i was reborn.  i can’t even explain to you how content i was…then it started rumbling again and erupted.  after sleeping up there and waking up every 20 minutes to a huge eruption followed by fire, i got use to it.  when you’re a thrill seeker and put yourself in situations like this, you are well aware of the risks.  and the risks don’t matter when you can feel raw nature like this.  but when you get back home and hear the news about the same mountain erupting and thousands dying, it really makes you appreciate life much more.  that’s what you learn when traveling to dangerous areas.  you come back home and every breath is golden.  i really feel sorry for the people that died in the recent New Zealand eruption, but those thrill seekers were living their life to the fullest.  it’s very sad, but at the same time, they died doing what they loved.  i respect that… then after coming down a volcano and surfing waves like this, you don’t really care if tomorrow even comes.  a lot of people don’t understand me, but if you traveled the world taking risks, your life will have a new meaning.  and when your life has a new meaning, it’s like being reborn again.  like a little baby enjoying this beautiful world all over again…

Starting today:  The rainbows are back!

Good morning 5am.

North shore 8-10′ and bumpy.

Pipeline Masters?  i think 50/50.  Looks morning sickness so probably on standby for later start.

Ala Moana chest high and good.

Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.

Trade winds back at 25mph.

Sun, clouds, showers, and huge rainbows.

Going NORTH!

Have a wonderful day!

Pipeline Masters on HOLD today so i went flying instead.  tomorrow it’s 80% ON so waking up early and going out to watch Seth Moniz vs. Kelly Slater.  i’m pretty sure Seth will sleep good tonight and Kelly won’t.  Seth has nothing to lose and everything to gain.  Kelly on the other had has a lot to lose.  if he loses, he won’t be going to the 2002 Olympics, and the next Olympics he will be 52 years old.  so pretty much this is his last chance to cap off his amazing career with a gold medal for the USA.  he’s got 7 Pipe Master wins and 11 World Titles.  one thing standing in his way now is a young boy named Seth Moniz.  Seth knows well how important this heat is for both him and Kelly.  the whole world will be watching this heat and the winner will make history one way or another.  can’t wait huh?  neither can i.  so maybe both Kelly and I won’t be sleeping good tonight.  haha…