Performance Comfort Zone

Seth loves when his family is there to support him.  and we all love to support him too.  even when he’s free surfing in the morning before the contest, i make sure he knows i’m there because this is his comfort zone.  and the more family and friends there are, the more comfortable he is….

so when he’s pulling into barrels knowing we’re all there watching, he puts on a show for us.  he’s probably thinking “watch this guys!”  haha…

and when he comes out of an 8 point ride, he’s all smiling…

yeah, this kid is in his comfort zone for sure.  i love it!

Rainos, Tony, myself, and all our family and friends have been waiting for days like this.  and now that it’s come, we would be fools not to share the moment together.  so yeah, if the contest is on, you know exactly where we’ll be…

December 12, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

Do Not Enter the Billabong House!

Good morning 5:10am.

North shore HUGE!  15-18′ and dangerous.  Jaws contest on Maui ON!  Pipeline Masters OFF!

Ala Moana waist high and good.  Bigger wrap around tomorrow.

Diamond Head chest high and little bumpy.

Trade winds coming back at 20mph.

Sunny and warm and rainbows.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

Kitten vs. Lion vs. Goat

i left my house when it was still dark and something seemed strange???  one of the street lights was bigger than the others?  OMG, it’s the full moon!

driving to the North Shore and watching the full moon?  i knew it was going to be a wonderful day no matter what!

pulled up to the Billabong House and greeted the boys.  Rainos, Tony Moniz, and Brian Surrat.  all legends!

good to see the kids on the beach cheering on their heroes!

it was full house!  this was one of the best Pipe Masters as far as waves.  it can’t get any better…

Seth had one of the biggest heats of the day.  he was matched up against Billy Kemper.  Billy is Big Wave World Champion and just won the Pipeline trials.  he had the momentum, he was the guy to beat, and now it was the Seth the Kitten vs. Billy the Lion…  Coach Rainos, Tony, and i were more nervous than Seth.  haha…

my sister was nervous too but she had time to get the shot of her youngest son at the Pipeline Masters!  it seems so surreal…

Seth went out and did what he does best, which is to ride Pipeline the way it wants to get ridden.  in the end, the Kitten beats the Lion!

there couldn’t have been a happier family on the beach today.  this day will go down in the family history books for sure!

and guess who Seth has next?  yup, they call Kelly Slater the GOAT, which means “the Greatest of All Time.”  so it’s the Kitten vs. the Goat.  you guys already know who i think will win right?  and i think if anybody is going to beat 11X World Champion at Pipeline, it will be Seth Moniz.  then i hope Seth gets John John Florence next and beats him too.  then he will win the Pipeline Masters and qualify for the USA Olympic Team and surf in Japan!  people say i’m a big dreamer and i’ve always told Seth to dream big.  so i’m sure we’re thinking the exact same thing…