the sunset yesterday at Diamond Head was so golden.  i kept on watching surfer girls ride waves past me and i just watched in awe.  beauty plus beauty… my magic board working good as usual…i still can’t believe this kid is famous.  he’s representing Hawaii in the most respectful way.  keeping cool along the way…

Seth x Rainos + Metallica x Billabong

Good morning 4:30am.

North shore 6-10′ and good.  Pipeline Masters ON @ 8am.

HEAT OF THE DAY: SETH MONIZ VS. BILLY KEMPER

Ala Moana waist high and clean.

Diamond shoulder high and good.

Light winds this morning so perfect conditions everywhere.

Cool morning becoming very warm.

Going to the Pipe Masters.

Have a wonderful day!

woke up super early and headed to the Pipeline Masters before the traffic and panic.  these are the worlds best surfboards.  a dream quiver…lots of people showed up for the first day.  it was a perfect beach weather!Seth Moniz getting ready for his Round 1 heat… Rainos, Tony, and Micah are the top at the Billabong House.  you can call them family, security, and support…i still can’t believe how calm Seth is.  it’s like he’s paddling out for a free surf on a regular day.  but today was no regular day and i was more nervous than him.  haha…Kelia and Kaira wishing Seth luck before he paddled out.  and so did this bodyboarder kid…  Seth went out and dominated his heat.  placed 1st and tomorrow is Round 2.  i can’t wait!i got stuck in major traffic on the way home.  i was grouchy and frustrated because it took me so long to get back to town!  anyway, i sent a text to a new arrival “hey, do you want to surf this evening?”  i got a reply “YES, PLZ!”  we paddled out to Diamond Head can surfed the sunset.  we had good waves, good vibe, and a good time.  i left my house this morning at dark, and i got home tonight in the dark.  tomorrow morning i’m leaving in the dark again so better go to bed.  goodnight…