Sound Waves: Mic’d Up w/ Kelia Moniz

i’ve been waking up at 4am each morning to watch Joshua’s heat in Portugal.   and very happy to see him advancing round after round and surfing super good.  my dream is for Joshua to make to WCT tour too so he and Seth can push each other past their limits…was coming in on Mayuki and seen Seth out at Bowls.  i’ve been seeing him almost everyday recently so that’s been making me so happy… and to see him representing Hawaii in a very respectful and positive way makes me even more happy. Seth leaves to France tomorrow and i’m hoping he gets a couple good results!  i’m sure he will because he’s surfing super good!   as for Kelia Moniz, she was in New York surfing the Longboard contest.  the WSL mic’d her up and you should watch it online.  you’ll see a local Hawaiian girl living the New York lifestyle.  i don’t think it matches at all!  haha… but to see her hanging with her best friend Megan, i was enjoying every minute of it.  good job Kelia!  

Click here for

Sound Waves: Kelia Moniz, New York

September 28, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

Another Endless Summer?  South shore swells continue…

Good morning 5:30am.

Ala Moana shoulder high and good.

Diamond Head head high and good.

Trade winds coming back at 10mph.

Sun, clouds, and maybe heavy rain.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

Frost, Heat, and Marathon Session…

gosh, i haven’t seen this in a while.  frost on my windshield this morning!  that means it’s finally cooling down.   i’ve been surfing with Shin-san in Hawaii for 15 years.  most times we surfed the waves were small or windy.  but today, we got lucky.  it was neither small or windy.  it was the total opposite!   we surfed a secret spot for over 4 hours straight!  Shin-san caught 35 waves, and so did i!  it was so good that we didn’t want to leave… so when we left, there was still nobody out.  but we needed food!  haha…  so happy to see Shin-san super healthy and super energetic.  and super surfing good! Micah let me try his board and it worked really good!  i felt like i was surfing in the 80’s again!   since we couldn’t take photos at the secret spot, here are a couple from the other evening at Diamond Head.  Shin-san on the classic bottom turn!  nice ripping!  and keep on ripping!   on the way back in, we saw all the rubbish in the ocean at Bowls.  yuck… i guess somebody lost their sofa?   after a 4.5 hour session, us surfers get very hungry.  so went to my favorite beef stew pho restaurant!  thank you Shin-san for the amazing day.  i’m so happy we finally got to surf the secret spot with nobody out.  very very rare… omg, this is the best!   then this afternoon got hot again.  37 degrees?  omg!  when will this Summer heat end?