Have a lovely day…

Good morning 5:15am.

Ala Moana chest high and good.

Diamond Head shoulder high and good.

Light trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and hot.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

everybody was saying today that the waves were junk.  the reason it’s not perfect like the other days is because there is a little cross wind swell affecting it.  that’s why the intervals of the waves are so close to each other.    so on days like today, you have to surf it differently…

the second wave is actually better because the first wave makes the ocean smooth like this.  Nakagami-san knew which one to take…

and when you have smooth waves like this, you can do smooth turns…

yes, we are practicing the cutback and this is how it’s done…

Tatsu-san is learning about surfboards now so that’s why he’s riding a different board everyday.

and when you ride one of my magic ones, your life will never be the same…

cool to get a visit from a turtle while waiting for a wave…

than Nakagami-san jumped on my magic board and surfed like magic.

thank you boys for the Boot Camp session.  each day we progress and each day life gets better…

in Japan, nobody rides the soup like this.  one reason is because they don’t know how.  and another reason is because they don’t have the right board. but when you know how and have the right board, you can actually do cutbacks in the soup.  yeah, about 4 cutbacks like this per wave.  why not?

2 guys in a bar.  one guys looks at another guy in a way he didn’t like.  they go outside and one guys shoots the other guy.  one guys is dead, and the other guy will go to jail.  was it worth it?  welcome to Ala Moana Shopping Center…

as for me, i’m all about peace.  i don’t want to shoot anybody, or i don’t want to be shot.  i just want to enjoy life like this and appreciate nature to the fullest.  so in the future, you won’t find me living on Oahu.  i’m already looking for somewhere else to live in peace…

we had a wonderful lunch yesterday.  i’m glad you guys liked the pho!   then Ayaka-san told me she didn’t like shave ice?  i said what???  so i took them straight to Waiola and now she loves shave ice!  haha… 36 degrees?  this has been the hottest Summer in my life.  and also my busiest so that means i’m spending even more time in the sun!   picked up the 2 doctors in the evening for a classic sunset session.  look at Yanagihara-san go!   it was Miyahara-san’s first time surfing so i was so happy to see him ride some nice waves!   gosh, there is no place in the world that’s better than right here… Yanagihara-san is very cool and very calm.  and you can see it in his surfing… Miyahara-san thought he was going to SUP in some canal or lagoon.  but i told him, “since the waves are super good, you should surf!”  he took the challenge, and succeeded.  now i’m sure he’ll be surfing more and more… thank you boys for the wonderful time.  keep on surfing!  Waikiki was packed last night!  i couldn’t believe how many people were there! there were some cool booths set up.  this one had an hour long line… interesting foods from paradise.  i had a great time walking around Waikiki last night but i don’t think i’ll do that again.  i got bumped into 15 times because there were way too many people…