I feel so fresh again!  Loving life in Hawaii…

Good morning 5:15am.

Ala Moana chest high and good.

Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and foiling.

Have a wonderful day!

i took a 2 day break because my shoulder has been in a lot of pain.  it was the first time in 30 years that my body told me “brah, you work too much.  give me a break.”  haha.

stayed at a dream house overlooking the Pacific Ocean.  it was so beautiful…

i was practicing how my life will be when i retire.  sip on an ice cold beer each and every sunset from my balcony.  can’t wait!

i always eat healthy when i’m on Oahu.  so when i travel, i eat what ever i want.  and i wanted bacon!

my dream vacation!

Toda-san doesn’t have to be on vacation to eat what ever he wants.  he eats it anyway!  haha…

how many people wash their car at 6am in the morning?  only me?  haha…  i was sweating!!!

then picked up Seira-chan and it was already 31 degrees!  omg!  i took her to my secret spot for the first time and she loved it!  she caught her biggest wave of her life and caught any wave she wanted.  no stress and only peace for us.  i told her it would be totally different than Bowls and now she knows why…

went to the doctor to have my shoulder checked out.  he put me on ibuprofen for now and i hope this pain goes away!!!

got a flu shot on the way out and now i’m ready to go surf again.  sunset surf this evening so gotta go.  have a wonderful evening!

i’ve never free dove on the Big Island before so i was amazed on how beautiful the water was.  the visibility was amazing… and i couldn’t believe how many fish there were!  i didn’t take my spear this time but next time i will for sure.  then we will eat meals everyday provided from the ocean… when people see Seira-chan surfing, they always tell me how good she is.  then i tell them that she just started surfing a couple years ago and they can’t believe it.   in just a short time, she can find waves on her own, paddle into it, and surf it really good from start to finish.   i’m always keeping an eye on her but she’s totally fine surfing by herself.  and surfing better and better each day.   OMG!  Seira-chan showed me this photo of her 2 years ago when i took her surfing.  when ever i get a new student, about 99% of them surf exactly like this.  then after some yelling, screaming, scolding, and even breaking them mentally down, things will get better.  everybody knows i’ll do anything to get those bad habits fixed, including crushing their pride, and even making them cry.  frustration, panic, and even tears, i’ll do what i have to do because when those bad habits are gone, you’re going to love your life 100x more…fast forward 2 years and this girl is surfing like an olympian.  good girl Seira-chan!  and for all of you who want to surf better, let me take you.  but be prepared to get frustrated, mad, and maybe even cry.  but at the end of the day, you will go home very calm and very happy… Seira-chan’s fortune cookie read “YOU ARE GIFTED IN MANY WAYS.”  that was a well written fortune for a well gifted girl… the world is yours!  get ready for a big and bright future ahead!